This hobby area is going to feature articles on games that we have played including Frostgrave, OtherWorld Fantasy Skirmish, WH40K, Combat Patrol and many others
Over the last couple of months I have been collecting, painting and basing a 28mm scale WW2 Dutch Army for wargaming with Bolt Action, Combat Patrol and Chain of Command.
The miniatures that I have used are the highly accurate figures produced by May 1940 Miniatures. May 1940 Miniatures is run by Sander, a keen WW2 Dutch Army Re-enactor, so we can be sure that the uniform and personal equipment is 100% historically accurate.
Here's an overall shot of the complete platoon (plus attachments). All miniatures have been painted using Vallejo acrylic paint, dipped using Army Painter Quick Tone and then mounted on Sally 4th clear perspex bases. Click here to take a look at our quick and easy painting guide or click here to take a look at Sally 4th clear bases.
Platoon HQ contains a 2nd Lt and Sgt together with stretcher bearers and medic.
No 1 Section: Rifle Section containing, Section NCO and 2I/C, Lewis Gun team and 8 rifles.
No 2 Section: Rifle Section containing, Section NCO and 2I/C, Lewis Gun team and 8 rifles.
No 3 Section: Rifle Section containing, Section NCO and 2I/C, Lewis Gun team and 8 rifles.
Attached 81mm Mortar
Last week Doug and I played the 4th game in our Pulp Alley - Tomb of the Serpent Campaign.
Sideshow of Horrors sees my French Foreign Legion league going up against the Servants of Apothis in a desperate hunt for an ancient relic, The Ring of the Pharoahs.
Click here for details of Pulp Alley Tomb of the Serpent Campaign
We've had a few questions about the tents and caravans.
The round multi-colour tents are our medieval jousting tents kits, click here for details, the ridge tents are from our modern range, click here for full details. Caravan will be released in the next couple of weeks!
Multi-player Pulp Alley chaos at Hammerhead 2017. We had five cut down leagues consisting off a sidekick and three allies.
The scenario involved these teams searching for clues relating to an ancient artifact believed to be hidden in Casablanca.
We used 8 minor plot points, and nine reward cards. One was a Red Herring, meaning the plot point had to be returned to the table 6" away.
The leagues included a French Foreign Legion League headed up by Lieutenant Bernard Girard, the evil Germans led by the sinister Franz Scneider, and three international archeology teams led by Cassandra van Pelt, Jane Brook-Smythe and Dr Bill Conrad.
We had two types of perilous areas. In the centre of the Souk, the snakecharmer has left his snake unattended, this is extremely perilous! I also ruled that entering a building via a door subtracted 2" from your move, but entering via a window was perilous because their could be a police officer, security guard, house owner or guard dog on the other side.
Entering via a window seemed to be the most populat tactic, and we saw lots of allies going down, as things went horribly wrong. One gamer commented that it was working out more like 'Keystone Cops than Pulp Adventure!
Some gamers had incredibly bad luck. I guess I should not have said, "It's a gift, all you need is one success using any skill"!
Their was a lot of fighting between the different leagues, some easy plot points were overlooked while others were fiercly contested.
Dr Bill Conrads league heads to the Souk.
The second game saw some fierce rivalry between Lewis and his Dad Kevin.
And our youngest gamer was very certain that he wanted to play the evil Germans and played very well and certainly displayed Teutonic ruthlessness.
During the last turn off the last game, we saw an excellent piece of Fortune Card play when an opposing character is knocked into the perilous area surrounding the snake and fails the challenge and health check!
Over the last month I have been putting together a platoon of 28mm WW2 Dutch Infantry using the figures from May 40 Miniatures. This article is very much for gamers who want to get an army painted quickly and in use on the wargames table. May 40 Miniatures has a great guide for those who want to spend a lot more time on painting, shading, highlighting etc. My goal is always to get a section of 10-12 miniatures painted from start to finish in a two hour painting slot.
I'm a big fan of clear bases for individually mounted figures, so I started by clipping the metal plinth off using my Games Workshop Yellow Clippers. The figures were then superglued on to a temporary MDF painting base, and primed with Army Painter white spray paint.
Using a large brush apply a good layer of Vallejo Dark Blue Grey (paint no 157) over the miniature. It does not really matter if you get this over the equipment or hands, as these will be painted latter, so I do this stage very quickly.
I like Vallejo Sunny Skintone (paint no. 020) for flesh, so carefully painted the figures face and hands with this.
The next stage is to paint all of the leather equipment, straps, pouches, sling and shoes with Vallejo Flat Brown (paint no 140).
The bread bag and any other canvas equipment the figure is carrying is painted with Vallejo Green Grey (paint no 106).
The wooden parts of the rifle (and the figures hair) are painted with Vallejo Saddle Brown (paint no 138)
Metal parts on the weapon are then picked out with Gunmetal coloured paint. I used an Army Painter variety, but ant brand will do.
The final color to apply is Refractive Green (paint no 090). Helmets are painted in this color, together with larger pieces of equipment such as mortar tubes, field guns and vehicles.
The miniature is then dipped in Army Painter Quicktone - Strong. This takes a bit of nerve the first time in case it ruins your painting. I hold the figure by its base and literally dip it into the pot, and then use an old brush to wipe off the excess. I leave it until I've dipped the whole batch and then go back over them with an old brush and a piece of kitchen towel to remove any pooling.
After giving the Quick Tone 24 hours to dry properly, I spray the miniature with matt varnish. I use Army Painter Anti-Shine and superglue on to aSally 4th clear perspex base.
He's not going to win any painting competitions, but using this tecnique you can easily paint a platoon of 3 sections and a platoon HQ in four 2 hour evening slots and get them on the table for a game by the weekend!
British Army Chieftain Main Battle Tank
Over the last couple of days, I've had the pleasure to put together and paint this new kit.
Here's the kit laid out before I started. The body, turret and tracks are cast from a high quality lightweight resin, while the barrel, track guard and small pieces are cast in white metal.
I started by assembling the turret. These are the turret pieces laid out, before I started. Sloppy Jalopy has included a nice tank commander miniature. The Chieftain tank can be modelled buttoned down or with the hatch open and commander in hatch. This is the option that I have taken. The turret needs to be drilled out slightly to accommodate the generous lug on the barrel. I used a simple hand drill and needle file. A dremmel type drill could also be used.
The turret stowage bin, GPMG, cupola, hatch and smoke generators were glued into position using superglue. I use industrial strength superglue that I buy from our local builder’s merchant in a big bottle.
Here are the pieces laid out for building the hull of the tank. I have spent a bit of time with a craft knife and needle file to remove the thin web of resin from around the wheels, track and running gear. This is definitely easier to do before gluing pieces together.
At this stage I have glued the rear mud guards into position together with the lights at the front, the drivers hatch and a spare jerry can and chain link.
I have left the track guards off for now to make it easier to paint the tracks and wheels.
Here we can see the rear mud guards in position together with the two rear tow hooks. These were a bit fiddly, so a pair of tweezers was used to hold them in position until they had dried.
In this view we can see the position of the headlights and the front tow hooks.
Time to start painting. I painted the hull, turret and track guards separately using a combined primer / base coat spray. 'Chieftain Green' from the Battlefront Team Yankee range.
The tracks and the edge of the wheels were then carefully painted with a size 2 brush using Vallejo Black Grey paint. I did not paint the top track or running gear as it will be hidden by the track guard.
The tracks and wheels were then painted with a weathering product from AK Interactive called 'Track Wash'. This is an enamel based wash specifically designed for tank tracks. If you do not have any an alternative approach is to use a black ink or Army Painter Strong Tone.
Using a size 1 brush, I then picked out the detail of the GPMG, headlights and tow chain using Army Painter Gunmetal paint.
The next stage is to paint the black camouflage pattern onto the tank. I did think about masking and using black spray paint until I read how crudely the paint was applied, thinned down with petrol and either hand sprayed with axel grease used as a mask or painted with a broom in the REME workshops. In light of this, careful painting with a size 3 brush is more than adequate. Although the colour scheme is often referred to as black over IR green, the black is not really black at all, far more a dark grey. I used the same black grey that I had used for the tracks and mixed it 50/50 with black ink to get a dark grey / off black that flowed into detail well. All of the photos I'd looked at of Chieftains on exercise had about 1/3rd black, 2/3 IR green with 4 large stripes starting on track guards and then continuing to hull decking and turret.
It's not a hard pattern to apply, but you need to be bold!
Leave the base coat to dry completely. I left mine over night, before starting 'weathering'.
Weathering is the process of making the model look like it has not just rolled out of the factory door, but has seen a bit of use in the field.
I always start with my trusty 'Citadel' tank brush and apply a light dry-brush all over with Army Painter Gun Metal, paying particular attention to the tracks, wheels and corners were paint will scuff and scratch. Put a little paint on your palette, with a small brush or toothpick then just dab the tips off the tank brush in it, and paint up and down over a piece of kitchen roll until you have removed most of the paint from the brush.
The second stage of weathering was to start applying dirt/mud to the vehicle. Here I have used a Mig Earth weathering powder, applied with a dry brush. When I was happy with the build up, I dribbled some white spirit around corners and creases to draw the dirt to them. When the white spirit had evaporated, I sprayed the tank all over with Army Painter Matt Varnish to seal the weathering powder in position.
For the final stage of weathering I used some liquid mud from AK Interactive that I applied with my old toothbrush. This is a great technique to model the splatters of fresh mud that a vehicle picks up in the field. If you do not have the special weathering paint do not worry as you can really use and brown acrylic or enamel paint, although it needs to be of a good thick consistency. Put the paint on your pallet, dip the bristles of your toothbrush in the paint and then from a couple of inches away, and at pretty much ground level, draw your thumb across the toothbrush to send mud splatters over your vehicle. It makes your thumb really dirty, and is best not done on the kitchen or dining room table, as it can make a bit of a mess, but I think the result is worth it.
This is a great addition to Sloppy Jalopy’s range of Cold War vehicles, and I think that gamers collecting a BAOR based army have been awaiting it's release with some anticipation.
The kit is available from Sloppy Jalopy and Sally 4th mail order, and we will have kits available as Sloppy Jalopy’s show agents from next weekend (12th February 2017) at ROBIN, onwards together with the painted version in our display case. You can check out the shows that we are attending by clicking here, and you can view the Chieftain kit in our web store by clicking here.
Last week Doug and I got together to play a starting scenario for Doug's Afrika Korp League, The Evil Below.
This saw Hauptmann and his DAK troops landed by E-Boat on a remote East Anglain beach to make their way to the graveyard where the weeping statue was believed to hold an ancient occult relic of unfathomable power. On the way they picked up some local assistance in the form of a nun, the verger and the church caretaker!
So Hauptmanns league ended the game with two minor plot points in their possesion, but the relic slipped through their grasp. Let's hope they have better luck when they make it back to North Africa.
Click here for full details of Pulp Alley Tomb of the Serpent products.
Click here for details of the clear bases that all our Pulp figures have been rebased onto.
Click here for details of the church, which is from the Sally 4th 28mm building range.
Last week, Doug and I had a great game of Pulp Alley. Our game was set in the Pirates setting.
The games table was set up with none Terra-Former blocks representing a country road and fields running in front of some cliffs that concealed some linked caverns with an underground river where it was believed that Blackbeards secret treasure haul was hidden.
We decided that the underground river including the bridge were perilous areas, together with the rocky areas outside that were infested with rattle snakes. The brown bear and the wolf were moving perilous areas. Each turn we rolled a D12 for direction and a D6 for distance.
Doug's league was lead by the infamous pirate captain, 'Black Bellamy' assisted by his trusty sidekick, the one legged 'Jezebel Jake' and a rum bunch of scurvy sea dogs.
Captain Henry Avery headed up my league, backed up with his sidekick Guybrush Threpwood, Usop, Nammi, Malgo, and the cabin boy John Merrick.
Black Bellamy sends Lofty Lamora and Sanji off right flanking to climb the hill, putting the cliff between them and the angry brown bear.
Black Bellamy heads straigh for the place marked on his treasure map where he believes the first clue will be hidden.
Captain Henry Avery fires the first shot of the engagment, with his trusty flintlock pistol. Mulligan falls to the ground, down and out. As our game is set firmly in the black powder era, we used the optional rule for re-loading, which basically means that re-loading is an action, and you can not fire again until you have reloaded.
Black Bellamy searches for the first clue, overcomes the peril but only has partial success overcoming the plot point challenge.
Lofty Lamora and Sanji find a cave entrance and head underground.
The brown bear starts heading west towards Captain Avery's merry men.
Lofty Lamora and Sanji move further underground.
Around Black Bellamy his loyal crew see off opponents who are atempting to muscle in on the action. Franky Finn (pirate on the right with tricorne and blue jacket) is particularly deadly with a black powder handgun!
Meanwhile Lofty Lamora and Sanji find another chest underground but unlocking it is to much of a challenge for them.
Hunting for the first clue takes Guybrush far to long! When we rolled for scenario events, extremly perilous was selected. This made all perils, extreme perils, so we spent as much time fighting the dangerous enviroment as fighting each other!
However, the melee continues around Black Bellamy, with Jezebel Jake going down.
In a break in the combat, Frankie Finn gets to re-load and get another shot off. Habing to take an action to re-load really makes you think about when to fire and when to just dodge out of the way.
After solving the first clue, Guybrush can not believe his luck when both the bear and the wolf get his scent and move rapidly towards him.
Captain Avery sent the cabin boy, John Merrick and old Usopp through the other cavern entrance to investigate underground.
Sanji opens fire on John Merrick who returns fire and both fall to the ground gasping. Lofty fires at Usopp, who returns fire, both shops going very wide of the mark.
As turn six comes to end, neither side has found the where abouts of Blackbeards treasure, but Black Bellamy has a clue and is declared the winner.
Another great game of Pulp Alley, black powder /pirates worked very well indeed, so look out for the further exploits of Captain Avery and Black Bellamy.
I've put a page together with some of the best pirate models that we have available on. Click here to take a look.
Last week, Doug and I got together for another game of 'The Walking Dead - All Out War' by Mantic Games.
Last time our game was based in the Atlanta Camp, this time we decided to use some of the Sally 4th Urban Terra-Block boards to represent a city centre location.
Doug's league comes on through the Shopping Mall.
We've used the abandoned cars in the centre of the table as resource hubs, next time I think we will spread the items out across the shops as well.
Doug choose the characters and equipment for the game, and for a change did not go for firearm heavy teams at all. Each side had a single hand gun.
I hope they all enjoyed their last Christmas before their world was turned upside down with the zombie-plauge!
Emerging out of the shopping mall, the walking dead start to shuffle forwards to investigate.
Rick had the handgun for our team. With his first shot he takes a walker down with a head shot. Good fellow! Oh, dear looks like that was his only clip of ammo, as he failed his out of ammo role. Ironically, I'd decided to split the team, to cover more supply points and Andrea who is on the other side of the board, without a firearm finds two ammo dumps but can not get to meet back up with Rick to hand the ammo over. Lesson learned, for the next game!
Doug's team put the first few walkers down with little difficulty.
Unfortunatly, they have this nasty habit of getting back up again!
Andrea attempts to gather in the loot, but as the threat level rises, her position starts to look a little exposed. One zombie is not much of a problem, however if two or three get to gang up on you, your survival chances decrease alarmingly.
Rick thinks he has some supplies in the bag, unfortunately instead off supplies, he draws a lurker. I just hate it when that happens, and it's happened to one of my characters in the last two games!
Now to add to our troubles, something has triggered a car alarm, which is attracking the attention of every walker for blocks around.
The threat level hits maximum and it's time to bug out. Ricks gang pulls of a victory with 5 supplys retrieved against 3, but now the concern is routes back to safety.
This was another really enjoyable game of 'The Walking Dead'. Next time we play we are going to start the narrative campaign.
All our miniatures are based on Sally 4th clear plastic bases, full details of the range is available here.
The games was played on Urban Blocks from the Sally 4th Terra-Block range. If you want to find out more about them, click here!
Just before Christmas I plunged into the then unknown world of 3D printing with a Flashforge Creator Pro 2 printer. I did not really know anything about it, so decided to use a piece of software called Simplify 3D that made it very easy to get started straight away. I had backed the Indigogo campaign forPrinted Scenery's OpenLock dungeon tile system which is called Rampage. There are so many different dungeon tile pieces to choose from in the Rampage set that it would be easy to get distracted by printing out random tiles that look good so I decided that I would play the Dwarf Kings Quest from Dungeon Saga by Mantic Games and print out the 3D tiles and walls needed for each scenario before playing it.
The first introductory scenario, Journey from the West saw our two heroes Orlaf the Barbarian and Rordin the Dwarf battling skeletons to gain entrance to the Necromancers dungeon. The scenario was very straightforward, introducing combat and movement mechanics. The tokens seen above represent piles of bones that the Overlord can use to raise skeletons and other horrors.
It is not long before Orlaf and Rordin are locked in desperate combat and face additional skeletons joining the fight, raised from bone piles behind them.
I really like the Dungeon Quest combat mechanics, which I found very intuative. Each character (or monster) has a combat statistic which determines how many dice they get to roll. This can be modified by tactical factors such as being outnumbered, attacked in the rear, wounded etc. Characters also have an armour value that represents how difficult it is to wound them. In combat the attacker and defender roll the number of D6's determined by their combat statistic, a skeleton for example has 2 dice, Rordin the Dwarf has 4. Any dice that do not beat your foes armour class are counted as 'Feeble' and are discarded. Then the attacker and defender line their dice up from highest to lowest. Any of the attackers dice that beat the paired defenders dice cause a wound.
Rordin the Dwarf gets stuck into the skeletons. He can easily defeat one or two, but as they gang up on him things become more desperate and he is reduced to a single wound. One more hit and he will be 'crippled' and the evil overlord will have won!
Orlaf the Barbarian comes to the Dwarves assistance allowing him to break off from combat before ho lost his last wound.
Both of our heroes make it to the door, and begin to batter it down. Normal (or 'mundane') locks are attacked like a foe in combat. This particular lock has a defense of 2 dice and an armor class of 2.
Just as the next wave of skeletons is about to fall on our heroes the mighty door gives way and our heroes escape, barring the door behind them.
I have printed by Dungeon Tiles using PLA ( a type of plant based plastic) and have painted them to look like limestone using Sandtex Masonry paint. After undercoating with a spray primer, I painted all over with Sandtex Bitter Chocolate before drybrushing with Sandtex Mid Stone, followed by Ashen Green.
For further information about Mantic's Dungeon Quest miniatures / board game click here.
All of the miniatures in the photographs have been remounted on to Sally 4th's Clear perspex bases because I love the way that the miniatures blend with the scenery when they are on clear bases. Click here for further details about clear bases.
On Tuesday night (20th December 2016), Doug and I had a great little skirmish game using Mantic's The Walking Dead rules.
The encounter took place around an abandoned campsite, by a pleasant stream just off a minor road junction.
We played the resource gathering scenario from the starter set, with 150 points per side and nine potential resources.
Doug choose characters first and went for Rick, Carl and Sandra.
My survivors fetaured Dereck, Dale and Andrea.
My team split up straight away with Andrea putting a fence barrier between her and the walking dead before opening up with her hand gun to draw the walkers away to help Dale make it safely to the RV.
Rick, Carl and Sandra stay close together for mutual support and approach the tents cautiously from the stream bed. Some walkers have spotted them and are shambling their way.
Rick and Carl open fire on the approaching hord. Carl seems to have a steadier hand than his dad and drops a walker with the all important head shot.
Meanwhile, at the other side of camp, our plan seems to be working. Derek armed with a crowbar protects Andrea as the walkers get in close and personal. All of this Mayhem is enough to allow Dale to climb up on to the roof of the RV. Once in position, he takes over as the zombie magnet, firing as many shots as he can to draw the walkers back to the RV so Andrea and Derick can loot the car and the tents.
Rick's group holds their own against the walkers in their area, and put a number of them down for good with accurate shots to the head.
Although the plan to use Dale on the RV to draw the walkers away worked, it did not end happily for Dale. The trunk on the roof seemed a good place to replinish supplies from, but alas the only thing up their was a lurker which managed to wound Dale before he forced it back in the trunk. After a short storm, the RV caught light. No one was really sure if it had been struck by lightning, if their was an electrical fault or a booby trap. After manouvering round to the other side of the RV, with the intention of jumping down, Dale was shot, in the head by a well aimed round from Rick's handgun.
Rick claimed that he it was a difficult choice, but killing Dale was really for the greater good as the rifle fire from the RV was drawing every walker from miles around. As always, the walking dead is filled with moral ambiguity!
By now the noise and mayhem had pushed the threat level to high. An event card forced the more panicky firearm armed characters to blaze away at each other.
On the last turn off the game the alarm goes off in the abandoned car, drawing walkers like a magnet.
In the final analysis Derecks gang had won with 4 resources collected, but for the loss of Dale.
It was a fantastic game, we can not wait toplay again in the new year.
The terrain was allmade from the new Terra-Former range from Sally 4th, and as always miniatures were rebased onto Sally 4th clear bases so that they blended in nicely with the terrain they were standing on.
We still have a few sets of the Walking Dead starter set available with a free terrain set containing fences, road barriers and crates worth £7.50. Click here for details.