This area of the website is my hobby blog, it contains articles about games that I have enjoyed playing together with paining and model making articles.
Last Saturday (26th September) I had a great first play test game of Wars of Orcs and Dwarves with Buck Surdu, Chris, Mark, Jim and Greg. The game was hosted in North Yorkshire but all of the players were from various locations in the USA (Buck lives in Florida, Mark in Massachusetts, Jim in North Carolina and Greg and Chris are from Maryland). The game was played using 'Zoom', a video conferencing application. I have a webcam mounted on the ceiling in my games room, the camera and microphone covers the whole of my games table. These images are web into the video conference. All of the players have rules, dice and units stats. The players make there decisions and roll there dice and the results are reflected on the table top for everyone to see. Games take a little bit longer to play, as there is no concurrent activity, but they are certainly the next best thing to get together around a gaming table. The huge bonus is off course that you can as easily play with friends from the other side of the world as your friends from the next village.
Wars of Orcs and Dwarves takes the rules mechanics of 'Wars of Ozz' which is a Black Powder, Mass Fantasy Battle game set in the world of the 'Wizard of Oz' and 40+ other books written by L Frank Baum and others and applies them to Tolkien inspired, 'traditional' fantasy. Mark, Greg and Jim played the Orcs and Goblins and Buck and Chris played the Dwarves. The battle started with aggressive opening moves from the Orcs. Mark immediately sent the pack of ferocious wolves charging into Bucks Dwarven archers.
On the Dwarves right flank, Chris Palmer sets his Brigade to advance through the woods and rocky ground towards the 'Great North Road' which provided the strategic objective for the game.
Fighting unsupported the wolves took casualties from the Dwarves short range volley as they charged home and in the subsequent rounds of melee. We can see the survivors routing past the advancing Ogres and Goblins.
The next unit to charge Bucks Dwarven archers was a regiment of Night Goblin Archers. They have already suffered two casualties from bowfire as they have advanced. After each four casualties, a base is removed.
The Dwarven archers managed to move to there right flank to let the more heavily armored Dwarf Free Company advance into melee with the Goblins.
Meanwhile on the Orcs left flank, Greg and Jim have managed to get there Orcs to surge forward to occupy the road, control of which determines the winner of the battle.
Bucks Dwarves stoically fought of the Night Goblin attack, but no sooner had the Goblins routed there place was taken by a unit of huge, lumbering Ogres.
Gregs Orcs fan out in to line occupying a defensive position between the sturdy dry stone walls.
On the Dwarves right flank, Chris's brigade advances cautiously as fast as there short legs allow.
A bizarre sight, Jim’s Ogre regiment charges in a one stand column. It was a gamble, if they had reformed, it would have used half there move so they would not have got into combat, and it certainly kept the pressure up on the Dwarves.
Chris Palmers Dwarves fought well, here we see another unit or Orcs routing towards there own lines.
The Dwarves had enlisted the aid of a mercenary hill giant. He had little problem defending the bridge from the advancing Goblins.
Eventually the Free Company on the Dwarves right flank broke.
At the end of the game, victory was awarded based on the amount of non-routing units occupying the terrain tiles that included the main North - South road. The Orcs had three, the Dwarves had two, so on this occasion it was a minor victory to the green skinned brigade.
We are already planning a return match in four weeks time.
The game mechanics worked very well and I think was enjoyed by all.
The terrain was all built using Sally 4th Terra-Former modular terrain tile kits, which you can find out about here.
Over the last month I have been rebasing all my old Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy Battle miniatures onto 2" square unit bases for playing Wars of Orcs and Dwarves. Click here to take a look at the rebasing article and some of the classic Warhammer miniatures in greater detail.
I've just started a big project to rebase all my Warhammer Fantasy Battle miniatures onto multiple 2" square bases for playing amongst other games 'Wars of Orcs and Dwarves' (WOOD).
I've been playing and collecting Warhammer Fantasy since the first edition was released, and in fact we were playing fantasy battles before that using amended versions of Wargames Research Group 6th Edition Ancients. I was very excited when WFB was launched, rather than house rules and amendments, here was a set of rules purely for playing out Fantasy Battles. I remember the excitement of going to the local games shop in Kingston upon Thames, where I was at college and buying the box set of three A4 booklets. In those days Games Workshop sold and supported all sorts of fantasy and sci-fi games and you could of course use figures from any manufacturer to play Warhammer...boy how things have changed, and not all for the good. I've played all the different editions over the years and collected Dwarves, Empire, Brettonian, High Elf, Wood Elf, Skaven, Lizardmen, Ogre Kingdoms, Tomb Kings and probably some more that I can't even remember.
I was appalled when Games Workshop axed Warhammer. So many people had invested so much time, money and energy and it felt like a pretty cynical move to get people who wanted to continue playing fantasy to go out and buy an 'Age of Sigmar' army and start collecting expensive miniatures from scratch. I was pretty disillusioned and sold most of my Warhammer miniatures on eBay. I think that I'd intended to sell them all but got distracted or bored listing them and some remained, lurking amongst the thousands of historical miniatures in my collection.
Then came, Wars of Ozz, a fantastic mass battle fantasy system set in the worlds described in over 40 'Oz' books by L Frank Baum (and others). Not the Tolkien inspired Warhammer Fantasy by any means, these guys have muskets for a start, but it is a fantasy world with giants, trolls, skeletons, magic and much more, In fact as the 'Wizard of Oz' was first published in 1900 it is quite possible that Tolkien read it and was inspired by it as a child! I've really enjoyed playing Wars of Ozz. The rules are intelligent, streamlined and reach a conclusion in a couple of hours. They are fun to play and do not need the myriad special rules and exceptions that slow so many systems down. I asked the author 'Buck' Surdu, if it would be possible to use the underlying mechanics of Wars of Ozz to write a set of rules for playing games using our old Warhammer Figures and featuring traditional fantasy races like Orcs, Dwarves, Goblins and Elves. Wars of Orcs and Dwarves is the result. It's just in play test at the moment.
This blog is going to be all about the units that I am rebasing, and new units that I put together to supplement them.
These are some of the first plastic miniatures that Games Workshop ever made. You used to get 60 figures for £9.95 (because no one is going to pay £10 for a box of figures!). You got ten each of Dwarves, Goblins, Orcs, Skaven, Wood Elves and Dark Elves. These guys have fought many a campaign. Prior to this Warhammer Regiments box set in plastic, Games Workshop had released 'Drastic Plastic' 54mm figures and a box of plastic skeletons.
This unit is also mainly made up of figures from the Warhammer Regiments plastic box set. Each figure has a seperate head and their was a choice of two to give you some variety.
One of the issues I always found was ranking up miniatures whose arms and weapons often extended beyond their base size. In Warhammer Fantasy Battle, Orcs were mounted on 25mm square bases. In Wars of Ozz and Wars of Orcs and Dwarves, figures are mounted on 2" square bases, and it does not matter how many figures are on the base, the base is an element. I have mounted three Orcs to a base, this allows me to stagger them so that they rank up better and gives a bit more room for scenic modelling on the base.
The command base just has two figures, a Black Orc Boss and a standard bearer. They are both from the early days of Warhammer.
This weekend I have been painting and basing a unit of Wolves for my Orc and Goblin army and a unit of Dwarf Adventuring Companies armed with double handed weapons and crossbows to use in next weekends big Fantasy Battle game.
The Wolves are from Sally 4th Miniatures. I have painted some of these up already as Arctic Wolves and mounted them on single bases for the White Out solo / co-op play games set in the icy wastes. This time I wanted a 6 base unit of twelve wolves. I really like the dynamic poses, especially the leaping and the landing wolves, so I added some logs and rocks for them to jump over.
Here's the complete unit. It was very quick to paint up and was the first test for the spectacular new 'Masterclass: Drybrush set' from Army Painter. When I first looked at these revelotionary new brushes, I thought that no way they could be used on miniatures, as they are huge. However, they are the best dry brushes that I have used ever and the large heads with composite bristles makes short work of picking out detail.
This is the first of two units of 'Adventuring Company' Dwarves. I've called them Adventuring Companies as they are well equiped but with a wide variety of arms and armor. I needed a couple of extra units for my Dwarven army. About 15 years ago some one came into my shop with a bag of poorly painted Dwarves, which were pretty old school even then and asked if I could use them as her son had given up Warhammer. I said thank you very much and they've sat in the bottom of a cardboard box for fifteen years.
I had a look through them and sorted them into figures with a spear or double handed weapon and those with a single handed weapon, stuck them on temporary painting bases and resprayed them over the top of the old paint with Army Painter spray primer. As I had 40 figures to paint over a weekend I needed a quick technique, so I used the Instar Alpha Contrast Paint. This stuff is magic. It's like the GW Contrast paint, but less than half the price. It puts a base coat and low lights on in a single coat (when thinned with Water +) and is very highly pigmented and flows brilliantly.
As the figures are all different, most are Games Workshop but some are pre-slotta base GW, some are TSR D&D Dwarves. I wanted to blend them together as a unit and with the rest of my Dwarf Army so I did some enhancements. The standard bearer is converted from a Spearman using the banner pole and standard from the North Star Oathmark Dwarves. The shields and shield decals are also from North Star Dwarves (apart from a few figures that had shields cast on). Some of the figures had crossbows as part of the castings, but to make it look more like a dual armed unit I added plastic crossbows from my bits box that had been left over from some Perry Miniatures War of the Roses miniatures, (a range that I would reccomend to anyone wanting to collect a Warhammer Empire Army).
Keep checking back... Lots more units to photograph and add.
Over the last few months I have been painting and basing miniatures for Wars of Ozz. Wars of Ozz ia a mass fantasy battle system. Units are typically five stands. With each stand containing four, two or one miniature (depending on the size of the miniature). I've had quiet a few people email me with questions about how I base the miniatures. The important thing to note is that I base my miniatures so that they exactly match the Terra-Former terrain tiles that they are going to be fighting on, so in essence each figure base that I landscape is landscaped in exactly the same way, with the same materials as if it was a terrain module. If you are using different materials for your games table, such as static grass or coloured sawdust flock, you will want to use those materials on your bases, rather than what I am going to show you.
After I varnished the figures with brush on gloss varnish and then sprayed on Matt varnish, I took the figures off the temporary painting bases and glued them onto 2" square MDF bases using Superglue.
I don't like to be able to see the 'plinth' that figures are cast on, so I use ready mix plaster to build up the terrain to hide the bases.
I think this type of plaster could be called 'spackle' in the USA? I use a sculpting tool and an old paint brush to get it between the individual figures bases with out getting any on the actual miniatures.
Using cheap 'craft' paint which I buy in a 2oz bottle the bases are undercoated a dark brown color (Burnt Umber)
The next stage is to glue some interesting scenic pieces to the base. I use twigs and gravel from the garden. I have found that the woody parts of lavender and heather look best as scale logs and brances. I also use a number of tufts from Army Painter and Gamers Grass ranges.
Over the years I have come to the conclusion that nothing looks more like soil, than real soil, so I cover the bases with soil from the garden. The soil I use has been carefully prepared. It has been dried out for several hours in the oven to kill any micro-organisms and get it to a dry powdery consistancy. It has then been sieved a couple of times to remove stones and larger particles. To apply it, I carefully brush pva glue onto the base, taking care to come right up to the sticks, stones and tufts but not to get glue on them. The soil is then sprinkled on and left to dry.
Once the pva glue is dry on the soil, I take the models outside and give them a good sprat with Army Painter 'Anti-Shine' Matt Varnish, which I have always found works very well. As well as varnishing the figures, this helps to fix the soil in position.
When the varnish is dry, I use and old paint brush to cover the bases with PVA glue a second time for gluing the turf down. I water the pva down slightly, and apply liberally as I want it to soak into the foam turf material. I try to leave patches of soil showing to add interest, particularly around the logs, stones and clumps of palnts. The turf material I use is 'Woodland Scenics' fine turf. This is a ground foam products. I've tried lots of products like static grass and powdered sawdust, but this is what I use exclusively now for terrain making and figure basing. I use the 'Green Mix' which I buy in the big shacker bottles.
As soon as I have sprinkled the 'Green Mix' base coat on and tapped it off, I apply some pinches of other colors. I have used red flower mix on all the Ozz bases to represent poppies. I also use a bright green and a dark green, applying pinches to give tonal variety to the grass.
The figures are then taken outside again and the bases are given a good spray of Isopropenyl soloution. This is diluted down to about 40% strength and sprayed through a household cleaning product mister. It acts to break the surface tension on the foam material, saturate it and draw the still wet pva glue up to solidify inside the foam.
... and that's about it. Here's my unit of Winkies deployed on the battlefield and ready for action. I hope that you've found this article useful. I believe that extra time spent on basing is never wasted as it sets off and complements your figure painting and ties your miniatures in with the terrain that you use.
If you would like to find out more about Wars of Ozz, click here to take a look at the pre-order / late pledge site on Gamefound.
Or click here to take a look at the initial products that are in stock and available to ship straight away.
Over the last few months I have been very busy painting miniatures and making terrain for'Wars of Ozz' an new fantasy mass battle game which is curruntly available on Kickstarter.
One of the terrain pieces that I wanted to make was the iconic, round Munchkin houses. After a pretty extensive internet search I concluded that nobody made a kit for these, even as 3D print files. I determined that the best way to approach making these was a combination of 3D printed parts plus traditional model making.
The hardest thing to make was going to be the round tiled roofs, however the beauty of 3D printing is that you can easily scale parts. I found some cylinders of different sizes including a Starbucks coffee cup and a pringles crisp container, measured the diameter and rescaled the 3D print files for the roofs accordingly. I found that I already had two files in my database of building parts that would do the job. The roof with the chimneys and little tower is from Printable Sceneries Wizards Tower model, and the plain roof is from Eslo's castle set.
I printed the roofs at different scales using PLA filament. While they were printing, I got to work on the main part of the houses. I started off making some doors and windows from card and plasti-card which I glued to the Starbucks cups. When dried, I then rolled out a piece of Das modelling clay and wrapped it around the cups, wetting it and pressing into position. I cut out with a sculpting tool around the raised doors and windows and added a few cracks to the walls.
When this had all dried and the roofs had printed, I glued the roofs to the cups and the cups to some Old CDs that I was using as a base using a hot glue gun.
Before adding some plaster and landscape materials to the bases I added some nice picket fence sections which are plastic castings from Renedra.
I spray undercoated the whole models and then painted with acrylic paint, using a selection of bright primary colours as favoured by the Munchkins.
I am very pleased with how these have turned out. I also 3D printed some Mushroom trees, the 3D file for those also came from 'Printable Scenery'
My next project is to make some oriental style 'Winkie' houses using 3D printed roofs and MDF box walls, so hopefully I will be able to share details of those over the next couple of weeks.
If you've not come across it yet and would like more information, Wars of Ozz is a brand new mass fantasy battle game inspired by the world of Oz, first chronicled by L Frank Baum with films by MGM and Disney! There is currently a Kickstarter running click here for details.
I do like to have variety in the miniatures that I use both for Role Playing Games and Tabletop Skirmishes.
I particularly like to be able to set the scene with groups of villagers, who are not heavily armed or in aggresive poses going about their village. This sort of figure is always a bit difficult to track down for historical or mainstream fantasy so doubly so for anthropomorphic villagers. I was very excited when I first heard about the 'Folk Rabble' set that Fireforge Games were planning as it sounded like they would be an ideal base for conversions for both lightly armed militia as well as village folk going about their daily business.
Last weekend, I had a spare half an hour so picked up a box of Folk Rabble and some 'Critter Conversion Kit' heads and tales and started work on building some 'Woodland Villagers'.
The sprue from Fireforge Games has six different bodies, four male and two female together with loads of options including hay forks, bills, scythes, axes, flails, buckets and torches and much more.
It is very easy to but together villager poses as well as militia style poses. Once I had glued the arms to the bodies with plastic glue, it was very easy to glue the metal anthropomorphic heads and tails from the 'Critter Conversion Kits' in place with a drop of superglue.
I'm looking forward to gettting these characterful models painted up and to use them in a game. I'm hoping that I'll get them painted up in the next couple of weeks, so will add some photos when I have.
In case anyone is interested in having ago, I've put together a little Woodland Villagers Conversion that contains a sprue of six models plus six random metal conversions heads and tails.
ACP164:The Albedo Miniatures games is a 28mm hard sci-fi platoon / company level skirmish games in the world of the Albedo Anthropomorphic comics.
To enable players to keep up with miniature gaming during the 2020 global pandemic, we developed a set of solo rules, which are available as a free PDF download. Click here to download them.
Mike Wilson has developed a comprehensive, planet wide campaign game. Players across the world are giving orders to formations and then fighting tabletop battles against a programmed 'intelligent' opponent and then feeding the results back into the overall campaign. Click here to take a look at (or join up to) the Albedo campaign
Last week I played my first solo ACP164 game as part of the campaign. I am playing an Independent Lapine Republic (ILR) Air Mobile Company. At the outset of the Jika campaign they used their Air Mobility to leap forward to land in and around the vitally important mineral mines and then dig in until mechanised forces could reinforce them. While their, to keep the troops frosty the Company Commander ordered some aggresive patrolling to dominate their perimeter.
This action pitted an ILR Platoon against an EDF Armoured Company. The EDF Armoured Company had two Platoons in the line and the third on rotation and each platoon initially had one section standing to at the front and rear of their position, and the third section getting their heads down in their scratchers.
The EDF Company Commander and CSM together with the rest of HQ section were located in a sandbagged position guarding a tunnel entrance to an underground command bunker.
The ILR raiding party rolled to determine their mission, which ended up being to exit off the opposite table edge. As the far side of the table was a command bunker, I decided the mission was to get inside to capture some Intel. The tunnel entrance looked like an easier route of the table than the checkpoint between the cliffs and the building.
The ILR move forward, taking some casualties from flanking fire, but utilising fire and maneuver they give as good as they take and move foward in bounds, sprinting to the next piece of cover before resting to recover.
The EDF realise that the threat is to the rear of their position, thin out the defenders at the front to get them into the firing line.
The ILR move through the wreckage of a shuttle. The last dash to the enemy position is very exposed so they wait until they can bring enough troops up to suppress with fire before the final sprint.
The EDF have a very unlucky day, especially for command casualties. Here a stray round hits their platoion commander straight in the face to incapacitate him with no cover save.
An EDF section from the front of the building redeploys to the roof in anticipation of good arcs of fire.
The EDF's bad luck continues with both the Company Commander and CSM going down from critical shots.
More and more EDF troops are depeployed to the front. Here we see a half section who had started the encounter stood down, moving into position.
The Tunnel entrance has been suppressed and the ILR Air Assault Troopers rush forward to occupy the position. The Air Assault are an elite formation who benefit from elite shooting modifiers plus helmet, torso and abdomen body armour.
The first troops move through the carnage of the defensive position and into the relative safety of the tunnel entrance.
The EDF inflict casualties as the remainder of the Air Assault Platoon cross open ground to the bunker, but eventually the bulk of the platoon are on the objective.
The EDF continue to engage the enemy in a long range firefight. The half section that redeployed onto the roof have good arcs across the battlefield.
The ILR move through the bunker complex. The EDF mount a counterattack through the main bunker entrance, but it is to little, to late.
The final results of the game were fed into the overall campaign.
Last weekend I started a first playtest game to try out the solo mechanisms built into Wars of Ozz. I've been painting up miniatures for Wars of Ozz for several weeks now so have enough painted to field a 25 point Brigade of Quadlings and Gilikins. 25 points is the standard size size for a player to command.
One of the things I really like about Wars of Ozz is the Regimental personalisation. At the start of the game you roll a D20 for each unit to determine it's personalisation, so you could have a number of units of basically the same troop type that behave slightly differently due to the character of their leader.
The Quadling Army was made up of:
Southern Infantry - 5 pts - Swift +2" to movement
Northern Infantry - 6pts - Indecisive -1" to even move rolls / +1" to odd move rolls
Tinmen - 6pts - Zealous - When fired upon will respond by charging enemy if within 10"
Medium Artillery Battery - 5pts - Impatient - Attacks 1st in melee
Lesser Pumpkin Heads - 3 pts - Lucky - reroll one combat dice
Led by the Red Witch who rolled up the Duelist skill.
The Gilikins fielded the following:
Gilikin Infantry - 5pts - Steadfast +1 to units resolve
Gilikin Cavalry on Giant Goats - 6pts - Beserkers + 1 to units melee ability
Giant Flying Apes - 8ppts - Hesitant -1 to units Elan
Light Artillery - 4pts- Beserkers + 1 to units melee ability
Talisman (magic item) - 2pts - +1 To marksmanship of Infantry
Led by Green Witch and her superior staff which extended her command radius to 18" rather than normal 12"
In this solo game, I played the Quadlings against system run Gilikins. I deployed the Quadlings on to the table and then rolled a D6 for start position of each Gilikin unit.
Unit activation uses the Double random allocation method. At the start of the game each brigade commander determines their dice pool. One dice for themselves, plus one dice for each unit within their command radius (which is normally 12"). Any unit outside their command radius has a D6 rolled for their activation number and placed by the unit, as they are to far away to be influenced by the brigade commander. The activation deck contains black 1-6 cards and red 1-6 cards plus two jokers. One side is red the other is black. In this game I decided Quadlings would be red as they carry red flags. A card is turned from activation deck, if the number corresponds to a dice in the brigade commanders dice tool, they can allocate it to a unit and that unit can then activate (move, fire or melee). If the dice has already been allocated to a unit, that unit activates at that point. Both sides potentially activate on the card, so units often activate twice in a turn. The color of the card determines who acts first (if important), so if it is a Red Four, the Quadlings would act first on it. Once both Jokers have been drawn the turn ends and the cards are reshuffled.
Turn one was all about manouvere and deployment. By the end of the turns the Quadlings had formed a credible battle line.
However their flanks are far from secure. The Gilikins Giant Flying Apes threaten their right flank and the Gilikin Cavalry their left flank. Although the cavalry are slowed by moving over rough grouns and having to cross a linear obstacle to move through the corn fields. The order of activation is going to be very important at the start of turn two to see if the Tinmen and Lesser Pumpkin Heads can get into a position to protect the Quadlings left flank.
To be continued...
The Quadlings manage to move their infantry and artillery into position to form a good defensive line.
However, it looks like the Green Witch has a pretty effective secret weapon that she is about to unleash on the Quadlings lines. She focuses her energy on getting this flying unit as far forward as she can, on her left flank to attempt a flanking attack.
The Great Flying Apes charge! Looks like it is going to be a very one sided affair.
However, 'Wars of Ozz' has some very good rules around morale and reactions. The Quadling gunners test against their 'Elan' for being charged, and roll a '1', which is as good a reaction as is possible. They manage to turn to face, shoot and will fight in the upcoming melee at 'up 1' (presumably to represent the effect of that final shot of close range grape-shot. The white dice represent the casualties inflicted. So the Apes took 6 from shooting and melee, meaning they lose a stand with 2 hits carried as stands are normally 4 hits strong. The Quadling took 2 hits, but as each stand is only 1 hit strong they lose 2 stands.
The final result of the melee is that the Quadling gunners have routed away from their gun, and the flying apes are pushed back, disordered.
Meanwhile on the Gilikins right flank, their cavalry are taking longer than they planned to cross the fields of crops (rough going) to attack the Quadlings in the flank. In fact, it looks like the advantage is being turned, as the Quadling infantry are begining to wheel into a frontal position and the Tinmen are moving up to threaten the Gilikins flank.
As this was a solo game, I recorded the 'posture' of the Gilikins each turn to see how they would react. This is the posture tracking table at the end of turn 2. The posture of the system controlled force is dependent on the balance of successes, morale and loses. At the moment their forces posture is 'normal'. For each posture state there is a table to roll on to determine how a particular unit behaves at the point it is activated.
The Quadlings manage to improve there position by moving a unit of Lesser Pumpking Heads up to reinforce the right of there line.
The Tinmen continue to move forward to threaten the right flank of the Gilikin cavalry.
The Tinmen charge home and after a couple of rounds of continuing melee the Gilikins have lost two bases, the tinmen one and both are carrying three hits over.
Eventually the Gilikin Cavalry break and fall back disordered.
The Lesser Pumpking Heads charge the Great Flying Apes. Bases in contact and bases touching bases in contact get to fight. So the Pumking heads have four bases fighting two, and eventually destroy the apes.
This is the position at the end of turn three. The Gilikin infantry have moved forward and deployed into line.
During turn four the Tinmen managed to charge the disordered Gilikin cavalry again which resulted in the survivors retreating in a rout.
The Quadling line was now perfectly deployed and in a strong position, so at this point I called it as a Quadling victory.
The game was very entertaining, the mechanisms were easy to use and delivered a decisive result and even better, in these strange times, the rules have solo, programmed opponent features designed into the core rules.
Wars of Ozz is a fantasy mass battle table top game inspired by the world imagined and chronicled by Baum in the Oz books but further developed by Russ Dunway as a brand new and unique gaming world. Further details @ www.warsofozz.com
As all our lives and social habits (including miniatures gaming) have been turned on their heads with the global Covid-19 virus pandemic, at Sally 4th we have been looking for little things that we can do to brighten our lives by facilitating some solo miniatures gaming. Over the last two or three weeks we have released a Free Sci-Fi Solo engine for Albedo ACP164, and any other sci-fi miniatures game system and a Free solo games engine for WW2 Skirmish gaming with Combat Patrol (and any other platoon level WW2 rules) These were both free downloads, and we made the rules and player aids to go with the games freely downloadable as well.
This time we are looking to go a bit further and offer something that is free and can be played by anyone even if they do not have any miniatures or terrain.
The game is Pulp Alley, which is my go to rules system for any period / genre where you have 6-12 figures per side (Pulp, Fantasy, Western, Sci-Fi etc). I have put a scenario together which can be played solo or with an opponent and is family friendly, so great for introducing your kids or your nephews and nieces to miniatures gaming.
The setting is 'swords and sorcery' and the leagues are based on the 'Toon Range' from Lucid Eye. Click here to check out the complete range of Toon Miniatures, however I have painted a set, photographed them and made some Standees that you can download, print and cut out, glue to a base and use to get you going. One league is made up of four 'Adventuers' Dwarf / Elf/ Barbarian / Wizard etc. and the other league is made up of the Newt Lord, Frog Prince and Newt Warriors.
The terrain that I used as a mixture of 3D printed items, a resin stone ruin and some of the Sally 4th Lattice Work bridges, that you can check out here. However I have photographed all of the terrain elements and put them in a PDF file that you can download, print and cut out.
Pulp Alley rules and cards are available as free introductory downloads, if you like the game and want to see what other supplements, cards and scenarios are available, click here to visit our Pulp Alley Store.
If you do not have the right dice, Pulp Alley uses D6, D8, D10 there are lots of Free Apps to run on your smart phone to provide any dice you could think of. I use an App on my IPhone called 'Mighty Dice'.
22nd April 2020: I've just added the Part 2 video that takes us through the rest off the game.
Links to Free Downloads:
I’ve been painting miniatures and making model kits for over 40 years now and have used a lot of paints starting with Airfix enamels, then artists and Games Workshops acrylic paints, Colour Party, Coat’d Arms, Foundry before settling on Acrylic paints in bottles from Vallejo, Army Painter and Instar. During this time I’ve tried a whole host of different storage systems from show boxes, biscuit tins and file boxes to commercial storage from Games Workshop and our own Sally 4th racks.
I’ve recently been encouraged to tidy up my painting desk, and decided to take that opportunity to design and manufacture what I felt was the perfect solution (for my needs). So this is what I came up with. I thought that while I was tidying and sorting out paint storage, it would be a good opportunity to improve the lighting at my painting table. I used to use a double spot light on a stand. This was OK but tended to cast a shadow, so I've replaced it with a LED arc. The Arc it's self is 15mm plastic plumbing pipe, brought cheaply from the local builders merchant. I brought 1 10 metre length of LED's with a transformer and dimmer from Amazon for £16. I used a bit of Gaffer Tape at each end to hold the LED strip in position and then just wound it round the piping. A short length of 21mm plastic piping was attached to each leg using a cable tie. The ends of the 15mm pipe are held in the larger pipe. It took less than 15 minutes to put together and provides me with dimmable shadow free lighting.
The paint storage modules hold 15 bottles of paint and underneath the paint rack is a sturdy draw with a clear Perspex front so I can see what is inside and don’t have to label the drawer or remember what I have put where. The modules have been designed with ultra-strong rare earth magnets to hold them together into a solid group. Finally the material used is top grade 3mm MDF, rather than the flimsier 2mm as this makes the glued joints so much stronger.
The corners have been filled with a tool tidy. This also comes with rare earth magnets and there is a choice of 2 types of holder to fit on the top, one designed for paint brushes and the other designed for files and similar tools.
I've added the three products that I have designed to the website in case anyone else is interested in using the same soloution for organising their work space. Click here to take a look
Over the last few months I have been working on a pair of armies for fantasy tabletop gaming with Saga Age of Magic, Thud & Blunder and Frostgrave themed around the Redwall Abbey series of fantasy books. I the world of Redwall the forces of Evil are often a verminous hoard of rats with the occasional ferret or stout for variety and the forces of good are the Redwall Abbey mice together with woodland allies, often in the form of military hares from the 'Long Patrol'.
In my last hobby blog, we had taken a look at the start of my Redwall Mice so this time we are looking at the Rats of Gabool the Wild, notorious king of all sea rats. All of the miniatures (apart from the rat swarms that are 3D printed), are conversions of platic or metal 28mm miniatures using Albedo Critter Conversion kits
Saga Age of Magic is the ruleset that I am using for unit based battles. At the moment Gabools hoard is a 6pt Saga Army consisting of a Warlord, Lieutenant, Sorceror, 2 points of Hearthguard, 1 point of Warriors, 1 point of Levy and 2 creatures represented by the rat swarms.
The warbands characters (Gabbol the Wild Searat King, Crooked Tooth his trusty Lieutenant and Singed Fur caster of wild magic)
Gabbol is a conversion from the Crusader Miniatures Sea Dogs pack.
Singed Fur was built using pieces from the excellent Frostgrave Wizards plastic box set.
Crooked Tooth also started out as a casting from the Crusader Miniatures Sea DOgs pack.
I have choosen to represent the Hearthguard warrior elite in my warband with figures armed with two handed weapons. The bodies and arms are from Frostgrave Soldiers and Ghost Archipelago crew plastic kits. The heads are Critter Conversion Kit Rats with Conical Helms and Rats with Cloaked Hoods.
The unit of warriors are all built from Ghost Archipelago plastic crewmen as these have a real swashbuckling, seafaring feel to them.
Although in the army lists Levy are listed as being armed with bows, thematically I sa the levy as oar slaves, living in cramped conditions so the sling seemed a natural weapon choice. In the game it will 'count as' a bow. These figures are based on Gripping Beast Dark Age Warriors plastic parts with the addition of rat heads from critter conversion packs.
Lastly we have two bases worth of creatures represented by rat swarms. These are the bilge rats from the pirate ships. I found a 3D file for a rat swarm and changed it's size so that it printed as a 40mm diameter base.
All of the other miniatures have had their bases snipped off and have been glued onto Sally 4th Clear Perspex Bases.