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Gaming, Painting & Modelling Hobby Blog
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Gaming, Painting & Modelling Hobby Blog

This area of the website is my hobby blog, it contains articles about games that I have enjoyed playing together with paining and model making articles.


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Building a Castle: A Tale of Two Cities

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A Tale of Two Cities: The Castle

 

 

Iain had recently asked if I could do a few test print and paints of some of the models that will be featuring in his new 'A Tale of Two Cities' Kickstarter. I am a huge fan of Iain’s work, having backed many of his previous Kickstarters and printed many of the models from them.

A_Tale_of_Two_Cities

 

Castle_11

I am focussing on demonstrating what can be done with the castle walls, towers and other features. This is going to be an ongoing blog with weekly updates over the three weeks that Iain’s campaign is running as it does take quiet a time to print and paint a whole castle!

Castle_1

I am printing my model on and Ender 5 using eSun PLA+ with a layer height of 0.2mm. This is a bit of a compromise. The models would look even better if printed at high rather than medium resolution, 0.12mm layer height, for example, but I am taking the 80:20 approach in order to get enough castle printed over the 3 weeks that the campaign is running to give backers an idea of what it will all look like together. Once the campaign is over, I will drop down to printing at a higher resolution.

Castle_3

The miniatures that appear in the photos are not from the campaign. I wanted to include miniatures in the photos to give an idea of scale and setting. I’ve not received any of the STL files for Iain’s new miniatures yet, and to be honest as I am spending all my available hobby time painting castles, would not have the time to paint them at the moment, but luckily Sally 4th recently produced a small range of miniatures in metal entitled‘Guards Guards’ which fit the theme nicely! All the Guards’ Guards miniatures are mounted on 25mm round bases, so give a good idea of where miniatures can be placed.

Castle_10

The first thing that I did was to give the whole model a good base coat of Sandtex - Bitter Chocolate. This is my favourite paint, I'm on to my second 5 Litre Can. I use it to base coat all of my figure bases, terrain boards and all model buildings and other terrain models. It bonds really well and gives a great smooth surface to work on.

Sandtex_Bitter_ChocolateCastle_4

After leaving the model for at least 12 hours so that the Sandtex in the deep recesses has completely dried, I made a start with the first of the three coats of drybrushing that I typically use on stone buildings.

I use Acrylic Paint from 'Folk Paint' ranges for painting buildings, it is far more economical than model figure painting acrylic ranges. I always paint buildings (and drybrush miniatures) using Make Up brushes. Theses give fantastic results; they come in a wide range of sizes and shapes and have the perfect bristle for drybrushing. They are also a lot cheaper than model painting brushes. I brought the set that I am using now from Amazon, £10 for 16 brushes. I have been using them every day for the last 3 months and they are holding up well!

Craft_Paints_and_Make_Up_Brushes

The first drybrush coat was a 50/50 mix of Nutmeg Brown and Khaki Tan. I squeezed a little of each colour onto an empty plastic lid, mixed with brush, then wiped most of the paint off onto a kitchen towel and lightly drybrushed all over with large make up brush.

Castle_5

The acrylic drybrused paint dry's very quickly, so after 5 minutes I applied a second drybrush of 100% Khaki Tan.

Castle_6

After the second drybrush had dried, I used three different stone colours to pick out some individual stones to add interest. For these I did use model paints from Vallejo and Army Painter. The stone colours I used were Khaki Grey, Green Grey and Stone Grey.

Vallejo_Paints

I also painted any wood with 'Leather Brown' and the roof tiles with 'Dark Blue Grey'

Castle_17

To finish the model off I drybrushed and wooden areas with 'medium flesh' and then applied Army Painter Blue Tone Ink to roof and 'Strong Tone Ink to wooden areas.

All of the stone work was then given an overall light drybrush with 'Buttermilk' this is good to tone down and blend in the stones that were picked out in different colours and brings the whole model together.

Castle_14

The model was then given a couple of coats of Army Painter Matt Varnish to protect it.

The Miniatures shown in the photograph are from Sally 4th's Guards Guard range, available on Gamefound

The Castle Walls, Tower & Gatehouse are part of Iain Lovecrafts 'A Tale of Two Cities'

A_Tale_of_Two_Cities

The Gatehouse benefits from a lovely interior with nice stairs and ladders built in, and a portcullis that can be raised and lowered.

Castle_19

The Towers have lift off tops and plenty of room to place a couple of miniatures inside.

Castle_13

Over the next week, I will be printing and painting the doors to go in the tower and gatehouse plus lots of lengths of castle wall. The wall sections take 16 hours to print, so basically one a day. I’m hoping to get another six pieces printed and painted before next weeks update!

Related Articles:

Watchtower, A Tale of Two Cities

Barbican Tower, A Tale of Two Cities

Xebec, Pirates vs Cthulhu

Captain Nemo & Crew, Pirates vs Cthulhu

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Painting the Barbican Tower from Iain Lovecrafts 'A Tale of Two Cities' Kickstarter

A Tale of Two Cities: Barbican Tower

Barbican_Exterior_5

An overview Video of the Barbican Tower.

App

Iain had recently asked if I could do a few test print and paints of some of the models that will be featuring in his new 'A Tale of Two Cities' Kickstarter. I am a huge fan of Iains work, having backed many of his previous Kickstarters and printed many of the models from them.

The second model that I have finished is this lovely Barbican Tower. It is a compact and functional building, with plenty of room inside for miniatures and furniture. The model prints in seven sections, an upper and lower tower, tower roof, small tower, small tower roof and two doors. I printed my model on and Ender 5 using eSun PLA+ with a layer height of 0.2mm.

Sandtex_Bitter_Chocolate

The first thing that I did was to give the whole model a good base coat of Sandtex - Bitter Chocolate. This is my favourite paint, I'm on to my second 5 Litre Can. I use it to base coat all of my figure bases, terrain boards and all model buildings and other terrain models. It bonds really well and gives a great smooth surface to work on.

After leaving the model for at least 12 hours so that the Sandtex in the deep recesses has completely dried, I made a start with the first of the three coats of drybrushing that I typically use on stone buildings.

Craft_Paints_and_Make_Up_Brushes

I use Acrylic Paint from 'Folk Paint' ranges for painting buildings, it is far more economical than model figure painting acrylic ranges. I always paint buildings (and drybrush miniatures) using Make Up brushes. Theses give fantastic results, they come in a wide range of sizes and shapes and have the perfect bristle for drybrushing. They are also a lot cheaper than model painting brushes. I brought the set that I am using now from Amazon, £10 for 16 brushes. I have been using them every day for the last 3 months and they are holding up well!

The first drybrush coat was a 50/50 mix of Nutmeg Brown and Khaki Tan. I squeezed a little of each colour onto an empty plastic lid, mixed together with brush, then wiped most of the paint off onto a kitchen towel and lightly drybrushed all over with large make up brush.

The acrylic drybrused paint dry's very quickly, so after 5 minutes I applied a second drybrush of 100% Khaki Tan.

After the second drybrush had dried, I used three different stone colours to pick out some individual stones to add interest. For these I did use model paints from Vallejo and Army Painter. The stone colours I used were Khaki Grey, Green Grey and Stone Grey.

Vallejo_Paints

I also painted any wood with 'Leather Brown' and the roof tiles with 'Dark Blue Grey'

Barbican_Exterior_1

To finish the model off I drybrushed and wooden areas with 'medium flesh' and then applied Army Painter Blue Tone Ink to roof and 'Strong Tone Ink to wooden areas.

All of the stone work was then given an overall light drybrush with 'Buttermilk' this is good to tone down and blend in the stones that were picked out in different colours and brings the whole model together.

Barbican_Exterior_2

The door was added. This is hinged. You can use PLA filament, but I preferred to use a length of Brass rod. 

The model was then given a couple of coats of Army Painter Matt Varnish to protect it.

Barbican_Exterior_3

The Miniatures shown in the photograph are from Sally 4th's Guards Guard range, available on Gamefound

The Barbican Tower is part of Iain Lovecrafts 'A Tale of Two Cities'

Barbican_Exterior_4

The Barbican Tower benefits from a lovely interior with nice stairs and ladders built in.

Barbican_Interior_1

Barbican_Interior_2

Barbican_Interior_3

The first model from 'A Tale of Two Cities' that I painted was the 'Watchtower'. Click here to take a look at my article about painting that.

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Painting Watch Tower from Iain Lovecrafts 'A Tale of Two Cities'

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Iain Lovecrafts 'A Tale of Two Cities' Painting the Watch Tower

Watch_Tower_Painting_10

Iain had recently asked if I could do a few test print and paints of some of the models that will be featuring in his new 'A Tale of Two Cities' Kickstarter.

The first model that I have finished is this handy little Watch Tower. It is a compact and functional building, just big enough for two Watch Men to survey the surrounding area. The model prints in four section, an upper and lower tower, door and roof. I printed my model on and Ender 5 using eSun PLA+ with a layer height of 0.2mm.

Watch_Tower_Painting_1Sandtex_Bitter_Chocolate

The first thing that I did was to give the whole model a good base coat of Sandtex - Bitter Chocolate. This is my favourite paint, I'm on to my second 5 Litre Can. I use it to base coat all of my figure bases, terrain boards and all model buildings and other terrain models. It bonds really well and gives a great smooth surface to work on.

Watch_Tower_Painting_3

After leaving the model for at least 12 hours so that the Sandtex in the deep recesses has completely dried, I made a start with the first of the three coats of drybrushing that I typically use on stone buildings.

Craft_Paints_and_Make_Up_Brushes

I use Acrylic Paint from 'Folk Paint' ranges for painting buildings, it is far more economical than model figure painting acrylic ranges. I always paint buildings (and drybrush miniatures) using Make Up brushes. Theses give fantastic results, they come in a wide range of sizes and shapes and have the perfect bristle for drybrushing. They are also a lot cheaper than model painting brushes. I brought the set that I am using now from Amazon, £10 for 16 brushes. I have been using them every day for the last 3 months and they are holding up well!

The first drybrush coat was a 50/50 mix of Nutmeg Brown and Khaki Tan. I squeezed a little of each colour onto an empty plastic lid, mixed together with brush, then wiped most of the paint off onto a kitchen towel and lightly drybrushed all over with large make up brush.

Watch_Tower_Painting_4

The acrylic drybrused paint dry's very quickly, so after 5 minutes I applied a second drybrush of 100% Khaki Tan.

Watch_Tower_Painting_5

After the second drybrush had dried, I used three different stone colours to pick out some individual stones to add interest. For these I did use model paints from Vallejo and Army Painter. The stone colours I used were Khaki Grey, Green Grey and Stone Grey.

Vallejo_Paints

I also painted any wood with 'Leather Brown' and the roof tiles with 'Dark Blue Grey'

Watch_Tower_Painting_6

To finish the model off I drybrushed and wooden areas with 'medium flesh' and then applied Army Painter Blue Tone Ink to roof and 'Strong Tone Ink to wooden areas.

All of the stone work was then given an overall light drybrush with 'Buttermilk' this is good to tone down and blend in the stones that were picked out in different colours and brings the whole model together.

The door was added. This is hinged. You can use PLA filament, but I preferred to use a length of Brass rod. I've added a rambling rose. This as an 'O' Gauge model railway accessory. A hole has been drilled in base to plant it and it has been glued down with superglue in a couple of places. I often like to add a plant or vines to stone models as a counterpoint to the strong straight lines.

The model was then given a couple of coats of Army Painter Matt Varnish to protect it.

Watch_Tower_Painting_8

The base of the tower, has some nice interior detail including a ladder.

Watch_Tower_Painting_9

The model roses were purchased from Model Scenery Supplies

The Miniatures shown in the photograph are from Sally 4th's Guards Guard range, available on Gamefound

The Watch Tower is part of Iain Lovecrafts 'A Tale of Two Cities'

Visit a Tale of Two Cities on Kickstarter

 

 

 

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Robin Hood - Scenario 1 - False Flag Operations

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Yesterday I played the first Robin Hood scenario for Feudal Patrol, written by Buck Surdu and published in Miniature Wargames with Mike Strong and his young son, John.

Robin Hood 28mm Skirmish

The evil Sheriff of Nottingham has arranged for a wagon load of food to be sent to a nearby, starving village, however it is not his intention to help the poor at all as he has also arranged for another group of his men to put green and brown robes on over there armour to make them look like Robin and his Merry Men. These Imposters are to attack the wagon and steal the food thus generating bad publicity for Robin and his men.

Robin Hood 28mm Skirmish

Here we see Sir Strong (a loyal deputy to the evil Sheriff) and some of his men crossing the river with the cart full of supplies. The horse and cart were deemed to move at 'heavily armoured rate' when pulled by a horse or at least two men. The Sheriff's men are regulars, with head, chest and abdomen protection. They are not as good at fighting and archery as the real outlaws.

Robin_Hood_Game_1_3

Here we see Robin (left most miniature) and one of his groups or outlaws. These forces were commanded by Little John, Mikes young son. Robin is of course a crack shot with best accuracy possible and he has an endurance of 6 rather than the normal 3 to give him a bit of 'plot armour'.

Robin_Hood_Game_1_4

Only the well-trained eye (or the mark on the base) can distinguish the Imposters from the real Merry Men. The Imposters were played by me.

Robin_Hood_Game_1_5

Sir Strong attempts to get the wagon moving towards the board edge, but it is an immediate target for some reactive shooting from Robin and his men and the first casualty of the game falls to the ground.

Robin_Hood_Game_1_6

Reacting to the threat to his rear, Sir Strong sends two groups of wagon guards to deal with the Imposters firing from the North East corner of the board.

Robin_Hood_Game_1_7

A lucky shot from a bow armed member of Sir Strong's retinue fells an Imposter 'not so merry man' before his comrade's charge into hand to hand combat.

Robin_Hood_Game_1_8

Meanwhile the supply wagon has rumbled forward, there has been another exchange of bow fire with the Imposter Outlaws before Sir Strong leads a charge in person.

Robin Hood 28mm Skirmish

While Sir Strong was engaging the Imposters, the real Robin Hood and his men have landed a couple of volleys of archery on the wagon and its guards. One arrow hits the horse in the chest, when the unit comes to test its morale, the horse has been spooked and in panic has turned and run back 10" towards the bridge. Robin did not have everything going his way, at this point he took a rather painful arrow to the groin, from an unnamed guard who had remarkably managed to pass a reaction test and land a successful shot on Robin before he got to complete his move! A number of Robins men also became casualties.

Robin Hood 28mm Skirmish

There is only one guard left with the wagon at this point, but he eventually manages to calm the animal and get it back facing in the right direction.

Robin Hood 28mm Skirmish

Unfortunately (for the poor horse), no sooner had he been brought back under control when another barrage of arrows landed, killing the horse and badly wounding Wulf the guard.

Robin Hood 28mm Skirmish

The victory conditions for the scenario are based on control of the wagon and the food supplies, Sir Strong had been in undisputed control until the start of turn seven, the last turn.

Robin Hood 28mm Skirmish

By a remarkable feat of luck on the last turn two Imposters and two real Merrymen had managed to sprint up to the wagon, so the game was declared a draw.

It was a very closely fought game, Mike & John had not played Combat Patrol before, but quickly got the hang of how it all worked.

Handy Links

Click here for details of the Feudal Patrol Rules

Robin Hood is from 'The Huntsmans Set' from Sally 4th The Villagers, his merry men are conversion from The Huntsmen and from Frostgrave Soldiers plastic box set. Click here for more details on converting Robin and his men.

The terrain is built on Sally 4th Terra-Former modular terrain boards.

Click here to visit the active Facebook Group for Feudal / Combat Patrol.

 

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3D printing, building and painting the Traveler Type S Scout Ship in 28mm scale

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Traveller Type S Scout Ship 28mm Build

This hobby blog is all about my project to 3D print, build, paint and game with the 28mm scale Type S Scout Ship recently released by 2nd Dynasty.

Traveller has always been special. It must have been 40 years ago that I started gaming with Airfix Napoleonics, AD&D and Traveller 1st edition, A5 black books in a black box. I still have those book, although they are on long term loan to my son Lewis, who is older than I was when I started playing Traveller, and now regularly runs a campaign using 1st edition Traveller with it's 1980's view of what the future might hold. I do find it amusing that he and his mates play as written with sci-fi technology that was dated before they were born... 1 tonne for smallest computer and navigation data brought at the Starport on a magnetic cassete tape!

Traveller Type S Scout Ship 28mm Build

Recently, our Monday night RPG group has started playing Traveller (5th edition), on-line, socially distanced using Zoom. When I started playing Traveller 40 years ago our party had a Type S Scout ship, and I can remember drawing out the deck plan using technichal drawing tools, and inking it in and know our current party flys the exact same ship. My character 'Flynn' mustered out of the Navy after four terms as an Astronavigator and Linguistics expert with enough ship credits to pick up a Scout Ship outright.

Traveller Type S Scout Ship 28mm Build

When I heard that 2nd Dynasty had negotiated the rights to design and sell an official licensed traveller Scout Ship I knew that I had to build one! The arguments about how long it would take, how much it would cost or where it would live were irrelevant... it was such an iconic link between my childhood and present day, that it just had to be done!

Traveller Type S Scout Ship 28mm Build

Week One: Stage 2 of 37 completed

The 2nd Dynasty Scout is designed as a kit of pieces that clip together with the industry standard open-lock clips. I'm printing mine on an Ender 5 FDM printer using PLA+. I like the PLA+ product from eSun because you can buy it in 3Kg reels, rather than the more normal 1Kg. This saves money as 3Kg reel costs the same as 2 x 1KG and it is less packaging, waste and reel changes. I did have to design and build a special reel holder out of MDF and plastic pipe. It works very well, I am on my 4th 3Kg reel.

Traveller_Type_S_Scout_Ship_Build_2

It is very important that the pieces print perfectly with zero curling at the corners. For this project I have started using 3DLAC spray adhesive to ensure perfect bed adhesion. I am printing the Scout Ship using a 0.12mm layer height. This is a lot slower than the 0.2mm height that I normally use, but the increase in detail and surface smoothness makes it worthwhile. In my next instalment, I will take some screen shots of the settings that I am using in my slicer for this project.

Traveller Type S Scout Ship 28mm Build

I am planning to run my Ender 5 pretty much day and night to print the components for this kit. My initial estimate is that it will take around six weeks to print.

I will update this hobby blog each week to share my progress until the model is complete, painted and ready for her first mission.

Week 2: Stage 21 of 37 Complete

Traveller_Type_S_Scout_Ship_Build_8

This is how far we have got at the end of the 2nd week. The printer (Ender 5) has been pretty much working 24 hours a day for 2 weeks to get to this point, and the ship is beginning to take shape. I have recently made models of the 5 crew members & droid who make up the crew of SS Inheritance in Vacc suits. ready for away team missions. I am starting to include them in photographs to give a sense of scale and perspective.

Traveller_Type_S_Scout_Ship_Build_4

Here we see my character 'Flynn' standing on the rear cargo ramp. The rear section is almost complete, engines output jets still need to be added and one more level of hull to match up with the attic deck.

Traveller_Type_S_Scout_Ship_Build_12

This shot shows the cargo hold area with full height walkway and half height storage areas. The cargo ramp is hinged. The grooves in the walls are for taking the cabling for the lighting kit. In the next stage the drive room will be built to sit on top of the hold.

Traveller_Type_S_Scout_Ship_Build_9

Here we see the crew common area with a fully equiped kitchen to the right and recreation area to the left. The tables and chairs are designed to hold flat against the walls when not in use. The joints are a little lose at the moment. I am hoping that a couple of coats of paint and varnish will tighten them up.

Traveller_Type_S_Scout_Ship_Build_10

This shot shows the crew in their staterooms. Beds and lockers have been added at this stage. As the Inheritance has a crew of five, I'm going to have to convert one of the beds in the larger staterooms to bunk beds as Smith & Weston share a cabin

Traveller_Type_S_Scout_Ship_Build_11

Between the bridge and the staterooms we have life support on the left and heads and shower to the right. It's a small ship and the design makes good use of a very small space. In many ways it reminds me of a camper van or a yacht.

slicer_1

This is the piece of software that I use to convert the 3D design files into something that can be printed. It's called a slicer because it takes the 3D object and slices it into lots of very thin 2D objects that can be printed by the 3D printer. The slicer that I use is called Simplify 3D. I like it a lot, it's very straightforward and easy to use and delivers good results.

slicer_2

The Scout ship is being printed at 0.12mm layer height. These are fine layers, so it is taking a long time to print, but there is so much detail in the kit that it is worth waiting for!

If you've not done any 3D printing yet, the more layers you have, the better the detail. Here the slicer is slicing the 3D object into individual layers 0.12mm high. The 3D print is a bit like a hot glue gun attached to some motors. The software directs it to follow the outline specified for one layer, extruding hot melted plastic as it goes. When it has completed the first layer, the print bed is dropped 0.12mm and it starts again travelling around the outline extruding hot plastic on top of the last layer. After each layer the bed drops until hundreds of layers latter you have a complete object!

The model shown for scale reference is from the Sally 4th Sci-Fi range. We have a number of Sc-Fi projects 'In the Pipeline, so if you like Sci-Fi why not pop acrodd and see what we are working on?

Click here to visit 'In the Pipeline' our projects in development page.

Click here to visit 'In the Pipeline' our projects in development page.

 

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Second Game of Stargrave

This is the second game of Stargrave that Mike Strong and I played. I am using my Albedo Creationist Crew and Mike has a Star Wars Crew.

My Creationist crew have been converted using parts from the Stargrave Plastic miniatures range and anthropomorphic heads from Albedo Critter Conversion Kits.

Stargrave_Game_2_1

Our crews have landed on a desert planet and are searching for salvagable items amongst the debris of a crashed ship and a moisture farm. We decided to use the disused factory scenario.

Stargrave_Game_2_2

The Albedo crew has seperated into two groups, one led by the captain and one led by the mate. Here we see the mate (female mouse in red and pink outfit) accompanied by chiseler, grenadier and a couple of recruits heading towards a data token.

Stargrave_Game_2_3

The Star Wars crew head towards the moisture farm, which is soon going to become the centre of attention.

Stargrave_Game_2_4

My Captain makes it to  the edge of the farm, using the packing crates for cover.

Stargrave_Game_2_5

Mikes General prepares to jump down, the idea of an ice cold soda is to much to bear.

Stargrave_Game_2_6

My captain invokes Void Blade and offers some sage advice to the young recruit.

Stargrave_Game_2_7

Meanwhile, in the bunker one of Mike's characters has found a computer terminal where someone has left themselves logged in during there lunch break and proceeds to steal some data.

Stargrave_Game_2_8

Back at the moisture farm, the physical loot on the red canteen table is hotly contested. My recruit is now wishing that she used the table for cover rather than jumping up on top of it.

Stargrave_Game_2_9

This poor recruit did not stand a chance as Mikes Mate armed with what looks like four void blades cubes her neatly.

The game was a lot of fun. Mikes league did slightly better than mine, but we both came away with some loot and some experiance, and we had a great time playing.

The terrain boards that we played on are all made from Sally 4th Terra-Former kits, and included a bunker tile.

There is a lot more information on the conversions that I used to make my Albedo Creationist crew in thie earlier blog article

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Robin Hood's Merry Men

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Over the last couple of weeks I have been converting and painting some Robin Hood miniatures. Can you believe it, 40 years of gaming and I did not have anything suitable in my collection... in any scale! This first batch of ten miniatures has been assemled using Frostgrave plastic soldier bodies and some handy metal conversion pieces that are available from North Star. I particularly like the arms with the Quarterstaff that I have used to make my John Little character.

Robin_Hood_1

My good friend Buck Surdu has recently written a series of three Robin Hood scenarios that form a nice narrative campaign for the Feudal Patrol rules system, which was published in Miniature Wargames 459 - July 2021. I'm curruntly putting together miniatures to play the first scenario, False Flag Operation. This scenario really appeals. The Sheriff of Nottingham is trying to erode public support for Robin. He had provided a wagon of 'food aid' which is travelling to a nearby village. He has dressed some of his men up to look like Merry Men to attack the wagon to generate bad publicity... but Robin has heard of the plan and sets of with him men to intervine! The scenario needs two sets of nine 'Merry Men' and 13 Wagon Guards.

Robin_Hood_1

Robin_Hood_2a

This is the second batch of miniatures that I finished yesterday. I have based those on the Sally 4th Hunters set, shown below, keeping the original head on one figure and removing and replacing with heads from the bits box for the others to give some variety.

Hunters

The Hunters expertly painted by Jon Atter, from the Sally 4th The Villagers range.

Robin_Hood_2b

The left-hand figure has retained the original hat. I really like it, it really says Merry Men to me, but I wanted all my figures to look different, so side cutters out to snip heads off, file flat and replace with spare heads from bits box.

Robin_Hood_2c

These three all have new heads. Left hand head is from Frostgrave Cultists, middle one is from Gripping Beast Dark Age Warriors and right hand one is from North Star Robin Hood conversion kit.

Robin_Hood_2d

I have added something extra to the back of all of the miniatures from the Robin Hood conversion kit, from left to right: hunting horn, deda pheasant, dead rabbit, sword in scabbard.

We have scheduled a day to play these scenarios, so will let you know how they go, in due course.

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The Adventuers of William Tell. Part 1

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My good friend Buck Surdu is currently working on a free PDF supplement for Feudal Patrol: The Ancients / Medieval Skirmish system for gaming the exploits of William Tell.

The Tell legend is generally set in 1307 with the famous apple shot to his death in 1354.  In his time, the Hapsburg emperors sought to dominate Uri, and Tell vowed to resist Habsburg rule.   William Tell was tough mountaineer who was an expert shot with a crossbow.  Newly appointed Landsburger Gessler placed a pole in the centre of the town of Altdorf on which he set his hat (or perhaps the emperor's hat) and demanded that all townsfolk bow before it as a sign of obedience.  William Tell would not, was outlawed and sentenced to death, although after the famous apple shot he escapes for, in the TV series, 38 episodes of swashbuckling adventure.

Swiss_Resistance

I did not have any medieval Austrians or medieval Swiss Resistance in my collection, so have painted these figures up for playing the campaign. I need a few more for both sides, but this was enough to play the first scenario. The miniatures above are the Swiss, unarmoured peasants armed with swords or crossbows. They are mainly 1st Corp miniatures apart from the characters who are made from my bits box... mainly from Frostgrave range

Austrain_Medieval

The Austrians are armoured, for the purpose of the scenario they have metal armour on heads, chest and abdomen. These models are also from 1st Corp. In the scenario the Austrains are not equiped with shields, I just added them to my figures so that they could display this lovely coat of arms from the Tyrol region in the 13th Century.

William_Tell_Scenario_1_map

This is the map for the scenario.

This is a small scenario played on a 3-foot by 3-foot table.  A group of Austrians has taken up residence in a cabin in the mountains for the night, kicking out the owners.  One of the children has slipped away to ask William for help.   Tell sees this as an opportunity to kill some Austrian soldiers and gather some weapons and supplies.  Tell must kill the Austrians and gather weapons, but he must avoid harming the family.  The Austrians can kill Tell, but they get a LOT more points for capturing him.

William_Tell_Scenario_1_a

When Lewis and I played it we had to turn everything 45 degrees as our roads come onto the center rather than the corner of terrain tiles. We had a central building to represent the farmhouse and four roads with trees and other cover between them. We rolled a dice to see who would play which side. Lewis got the Austrians and I got the Swiss.

William_Tell_Scenario_1_b

The Austrians have placed supplies in the storeroom (marked E), represented by four boxes, crates, or barrels.  The Austrians also have one cart and four horses, which are located where shown on the map.  One group of Austrians and the Officer are in the house.  The other two groups of Austrians are placed outside the cabin between six and nine inches from the cabin.  They must be deployed as two groups.  One Austrian in each group has a crossbow, one has a spear, and the other two have swords. The Frankhauser family is in the cabin:  the mother, three daughters, a son, and the father.  They begin the game inside the cabin

William_Tell_Scenario_1_c

Half of the Swiss have crossbows and daggers.  The other half have swords or spears.  William and Hetta must have crossbows.  Each Swiss group may enter from one of the four map corners (marked A through D) of their choosing, but no two Swiss groups may enter at the same corner.  The Swiss begin the game within six inches of the table edge.

William_Tell_Scenario_1_d

Here we see the Swiss approaching the farmhouse from two directions. The Austrians are doing there best to intercept.

William_Tell_Scenario_1_e

The Swiss put down a volley of crossbow fire with there missile armed troops while the sword armed resistance move up to take the fight to the enemy.

William_Tell_Scenario_1_f

Before long a fierce melee develops at the front and rear of the farmhouse. Two groups of Swiss manage to make it into the Farmhouse, one through the front door and one climbing through a window.

William_Tell_Scenario_1_g

However, at the end of the eight turn the Swiss have not managed to secure any supplies and the Austrians have captured Hetta (Mrs Tell) and 'Bear' Fetog another of the Leaders, so we declared it an Austrian victory... well done Lewis.

As this was a playtest game, we had some observations to feed back to Buck to hopefully make the scenario even better.

Feudal Patrol always gives an exciting and conclusive game and it is certainly refreshing to have the complexity resolved by the clever design of the card-based mechanisms rather than having to cross reference dice rolls on tables in books. If you've not played / heard of Feudal Patrol, you can check it out by clicking here. It covers Ancient to late medieval / renaissance period plus fantasy and there are a growing number of free PDF supplements for specific campaigns, periods or genres.

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Captain Nemo and Crew... a League for In Her Majestys Name

Over the last couple on months I have been putting together a league for the 2nd Edition of In Her Majestys Name based on Captain Nemo.

Nemo__Crew

The miniatures have been 3D printed in resin from files from Iain Lovecrafts Pirates vs Cthullu kickstarter.

IHMN_Nemo_1

The Nautilus is a Work in Progress, it needs a bit more painting and some shading and weathering. This is also 3D printed from Pirates vs Cthulu this time on an Ender 5 FDM printer using PLA.

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My good friend Mike Strong has helped me out with defining the stats for Nemos Crew in IHMN.

We've not played a game with them, hoping to very soon so the stats are subject to change, in which case I will update them here.

Nemo_Roster

You can click here to download the Nemo League for IHMN as a PDF file.

IHMN_Nemo_4

The bridge is 3D printed from Iain Lovecrafts 'The Frost' Kickstarter and the Lighthouse was 3D printed from a free file from Thingiverse.

 

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First game of Stargrave

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Last week Mike and I got together to play our first game of Stargrave.

Mike has modelled a Starwars themed crew using models from Star Wars Legion.

Stargrave_Game_1_1

I have put together an Albedo themed crew, based on the Interstellar exploration of the Creationist who set off on a voyage of exploration to answer the questions, who created us and to what purpose. I have covered collecting and converting these models in an earlier hobby blog, click here to take a look.

Creationist_Crew_4

The scenario is set in the hanger bay and surrounding rooms on board a spaceship.

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We decides it was going to be best to deploy from opposite corners rather than opposite sides.

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The creationists are working on getting the door open to the hanger bay.

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Once into the main hanger bay the crew spreads out, my captain (she is the cat looking at a datapad), is a mystic. One of her first actions is to invoke her void blade.

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Mike's troopers deploy into the hanger bay, making best use of cover. His leader (also a mystic) invokes void blade, jumps down and starts heading for the loot.

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The black wall is my captains 'Hollographic Wall', cast to give the crew some protection against shooting as the head for the loot.

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After a brief exchange of fire my Exective Officer (the mouse in the pink jumpsuit), takes a hit and is down for the remainder of the mission.

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The troopers have made it into the main computer room and are busy downloading the data loot tokens.

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The troopers scorned the Holographic Wall and closed for melee, the physical loot sitting unreachable between us.

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My codebreaker (the hedgehog with the data pad has managed to pick up some loot and is heading for the exit.

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The fight in the hanger bay intensifies and my captain and a recruit have backed away to make best use of cover.

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Although not shown in the photographs, our explorers were also troubled by a bounty hunter and some space pirates attracted by the noise.

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Here we see my grenadier taking cover behind some crates, he was particularly useful while a Husky Dog trooper attempts to divert attention before the recruit is sliced to pieces by the void blade.

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It was a very enjoyable game, my crew gained and Advanced +1 Carbine, my Captain Lana Acal gained a level and improved her ability to invoke suggestion, and we both learnt a lot about the game. We are certainly looking forward to playing many more games of Stargrave.

The Hanger bay terrain and shuttle featured in the Sally 4th 'Shuttles and Spacers' Kickstarter. They are curruntly available through Gamefound, click here for details.

 

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