This area of the website is my hobby blog, it contains articles about games that I have enjoyed playing together with paining and model making articles.
Last week Dave Phipps and I got together over Zoom to play 'From Another World', Pulp Alley Scenario of the Month 36 (December 2020).
Here's the video we recorded of the game.
'From Another World' is inspired by the 1950's Pulp Sci-Fi classic, 'The Thing'. For those who have not seen the movie, (which I highly recommend), the story takes place in a remote Arctic research station. An alien spaceship has crashed nearby, the scientists want to study it, the military men want to blow it up! The Pulp Alley ‘From Another World’ scenario does a pretty good job of representing the main plot elements from the film. The scenario can be played solo, against another league or cooperatively. Dave and I decided to play cooperatively, 'The Visitor' is pretty tough so shooting at each other felt like it would lead to diasaster for all.
The scenario is played within the Arctic research station, which has six rooms and a connecting corridor. I used some Terra-Blocks to put a building together. The special cards for the scenario detail five events / plot points that occur in different rooms. One card is turned at the start of each of the first five turns. During the sixth turn the big showdown occurs in the corridor, where the characters try to trap The Visitor. Solving the initial plot points represent learning about the Visitor and identifying its weaknesses. For each minor plot point / encounter passed the difficulty of the final encounter is reduced by one success.
Four of the rooms also contain Bystanders (Carrington, Nikki, Scott & Tex). These characters can be persuaded to join your league if the relevant challenge is overcome.
When you draw an encounter card, a D6 is rolled. 1-3 the plot point is placed and 4-6 The Visitor is placed.
We were unlucky and The Visitor turned up on three turns. He is very tough, being made of vegetable matter, he can absorb a lot of damage. He is also horrific. We had lots of attempts to shoot and melee with the creature and bizarrely the only time we did some damage and drove him off was when a character failed a Horror Check, was overcome with blind panic, ran into the room and emptied his revolver with his eyes closed!
Turn six is the big show down. This represents building a trap in the corridor. We made a video of the game, which Dave is currently editing. Once completed I'll add a link, so do not want to spoil the surprise and give away how we faired against 'The Visitor'!
I have made a set of Free PDF Pulp Alley character cards for The Visitor, Nikki, Carrington, Scotty and Tex together with the characters in the leagues that Dave & I played.Click here to download them.
The miniatures are from Sally 4th Classic Movie Miniatures range
The Scenario is Pulp Alley Scenario of the Month 36, From Another World. We have put together a special discounted deal that includes the miniatures and Pulp Alley Cards.
The terrain is made fromTerra-Block modules
The miniatures are mounted on Sally 4th clear Perspex bases
Inspired by good friend Mike Wilson, I have started this blog to document this years hobby progress.
I am planning to spend at least 15 minutes a day on hobby projects and if I miss a day, double up the next day and at the end of the session, take a quick snap and write a sentence about what I've done.
Friday 5th - Tuesday 9th February
I had a couple of very quick projects that I painted and completed over the weekend, which you can check out on my completed work blog including an Ogre for D&D and some Goblin Civil War miniatures.
The last couple of days I have been working on some miniatures that are going to feature in the Albedo Wave 2 Kickstarter, The figures to the right are an 8 critter AirCav squad. To the left we have a fun little conversion. I've converted a pack of Sally 4th Colonial Police, swapping there heads with some Albedo Miniatures Ferets in Fez's!
Monday 1st - Thursday 4th February
The Impkin Cavalry mounted on Cockerals are just about complete. I have added some tufts, my favourites from Gamers Grass and some soil from the garden mixed with tile grout. Just needs some Woodland Scenic turf and they are done. In the background is a unit of Goblin Civil War Naval Infantry that I am also working on.
Friday 29th-Sunday 31st Januray
Working on a group of 12 Monks & Nuns for Goblin Civil War and 12 Impkins riding cockerels for Wars of Ozz. Looked up some photographic references for Cockerels and they really have that range of color!
Thursday 28th January
Started a couple of new groups of miniatures today, nine Goblin Civil War Socialist Militia, these have been undercoated yellow and the Instar Alpha Pure Green painted over heads and hands, and a unit of 11 Impkins riding St Bernards for Wars of Ozz.
Friday 22nd - Wednesday 27th January
Finished painting eight Goblin Civil War Royalist and unit of 20 Impkin Infantry for Wars of Ozz.
Thursday 21st January
Cleaned, assembled & stuck on to painting bases Impkin Infantry, Impkin Caavalry on Roosters & St Bernards! All new unit types for Wars of Ozz
Wednesday 20th January
Army Painter Softone ink wash added to Goblin Civil War miniatures, finished driver for Carlson power boat and assembled a Gnoll. My son Lewis is playing a Gnoll character in my D&D campaign who was raised in a Viking / Sea Pirate culture so needed a gnoll armed with hand axe and round shield. The model uses body and head from Frostgrave Gnolls and arms from Frostgrave Barbarians plastic box sets.
Tuesday 19th January
Working on 28mm Carlson power boat. Another tricky bit of making to get that red line! Also painted main uniform colour (Iraqui Sand) on Goblin Civil War figures.
Monday 18th January
Did not get any painting done Sunday as shop refurbishment took all day (and most of night!) Today started working on a group of eight Goblin Civil War Royalists. I used Army Painter Demon Yellow spray primer becuase I like the green skin effect when overpainted with Instar Alpha Pure Green contrast paint.
Saturday 16th January
Sunseeker GX2000 - Not sure if it shows up so well but hull is split blue & white. A bit of a nightmare getting a straight line. Used masking tape & Instar Alpha paint which is very smooth and concentrated pigment.
Friday 15th January
Two RN Officers, eight US Submariners and a RN Commander on a Jetbike.... where are we going with this one?
Thursday 14th January
Royal Navy ratings & Commander from around 1977 (give or take a year). This are coming soon via the next Classic Movie Miniatures Kickstarter.
A Glastron GT-150 with Commander Bond at the wheel. Could the next Kickstarter be themed around Bond on water?
Wednesday 13th January
Impkin Artillery for Wars of Ozz coming along nicely, Woodland Scenic Tree Foliage added to Horse Hair structure and the crew bases have been plastered. Planning to get this finished tommorow!
Tuesday 12th January
Painted a group on eight 28mm Soviet Navy 1980's armed with SMG's and glued onto Sally 4th clear bases.
Monday 11th January
Worked on Impkin Artillery for Wars of Ozz. Added filler and brown paint to base and glued ruberised horse hair to tree trunks ready for foliage.
Sunday 10th January
Today’s painting has an Egyptian theme. I have been working on the Undead Chariot, Mummy and Pyramid from Iain Lovecraft’s Desert Adventures. The chariot has been sprayed Army Painter white and has had an Army Painter Flesh Wash applied. The Tomb has been sprayed Army Painter Brown Leather and has then been dry brushed tan followed by bleached sand craft paints using the Large Drybrush from the Army Painter Masterclass Drybrush set.
Saturday 9th January
I did not get any painting done on Saturday, but did spend time setting up and then five and a half hours playing Wars of Orcs and Dwarves with Buck, Mark, David, Zeb, Chris P, Jim, Kevin and Greg. The game was a lot of fun
Friday 8th January
Todays hobby time has been spent gluing together an armies worth of Movement Trays to enable me to use my individually based medieval figures as multi-figures stands in Wars of Orcs and Dwarves.
Thursday 7th January
This morning I completed this group of eight Goblin Civil War Royalist Infantry. I've painted the rims of the bases in faction colours (Blue=Royalist, Red=Communist, Black=Anarchist, White=Church) to make the miniatures easier to spot on the table when playing remotely using Zoom. As well as completing painting, I added Gamers Grass Tufts and soil to the bases.
Games Workshop skeletons and Zombies are now complete after I added Woodland Scenic foam turf to the bases this morning.
Wednesday 6th January 2021
I started work on Monday to repurpose these Games Workshop Warhammer Skeletons & Zombies to use for Wars of Orcs and Dwarves. Today I painted up a sprue of Renedra Gravestones. These were sprayed Army Painter Leather Brown undercoat and then drybrushed using the new Army Painter Masterclass Drybrushes... which I highly recommend.
Once the figures and gravestones were glued down, I painted over the bases with PVA glue and applied my basing mixture, which is sterlised soil from the garden and chocolate tile grout.
Tuesday 5th January 2021
Monday 4th January 2021
Something repurposed. Today’s hope activity is to repurpose these Games Workshop Warhammer figures into some units for Wars of Orcs and Dwarves.
I'm working on a Vampire Counts army for Wars of Orcs and Dwarves. I'm hoping to make two six stand units of Skeleton Infantry and a five stand unit of Zombies.
The Zombies had a very basic block style paint job applied, probably 15 years ago. Today I've dipped them in Army Painter Quick Tone Dark to apply some easy shading.
The Skeletons have been mended, carefully removed from their old 20mm square bases and glued onto 2" square bases with three or four figures per base. I am planning to add some Renedra Gravestones to the bases tomorrow to fill the gaps.
Sunday 3rd January 2021
Very pleased with todays progress. I've finished first chariot of three chariot Tomb King unit for Wars of Orcs and Dwarves together with a female prisoner and beggar from Iain Lovecrafts Desert Adventurer Kickstarter and five D&D figures (an Elf, Dwarf and three city guards).
Saturday 2nd Januray 2021
A double session, as I did not get anything done on New Years Day! Firstly working on a section of 3D printed City Wall. Plaster was undercoated Masonry Paint Bitter Chocolate and I applied a Yellow Ochre and Bleached Sand drybrush. On the figures front I cleaned up and undercoated white a Tomb King style chariot and applied an initial flesh wash over bone areas and applied some brown on to the batch of five 3D printed D&D figures.
Last Saturday (26th September) I had a great first play test game of Wars of Orcs and Dwarves with Buck Surdu, Chris, Mark, Jim and Greg. The game was hosted in North Yorkshire but all of the players were from various locations in the USA (Buck lives in Florida, Mark in Massachusetts, Jim in North Carolina and Greg and Chris are from Maryland). The game was played using 'Zoom', a video conferencing application. I have a webcam mounted on the ceiling in my games room, the camera and microphone covers the whole of my games table. These images are web into the video conference. All of the players have rules, dice and units stats. The players make there decisions and roll there dice and the results are reflected on the table top for everyone to see. Games take a little bit longer to play, as there is no concurrent activity, but they are certainly the next best thing to get together around a gaming table. The huge bonus is off course that you can as easily play with friends from the other side of the world as your friends from the next village.
Wars of Orcs and Dwarves takes the rules mechanics of 'Wars of Ozz' which is a Black Powder, Mass Fantasy Battle game set in the world of the 'Wizard of Oz' and 40+ other books written by L Frank Baum and others and applies them to Tolkien inspired, 'traditional' fantasy. Mark, Greg and Jim played the Orcs and Goblins and Buck and Chris played the Dwarves. The battle started with aggressive opening moves from the Orcs. Mark immediately sent the pack of ferocious wolves charging into Bucks Dwarven archers.
On the Dwarves right flank, Chris Palmer sets his Brigade to advance through the woods and rocky ground towards the 'Great North Road' which provided the strategic objective for the game.
Fighting unsupported the wolves took casualties from the Dwarves short range volley as they charged home and in the subsequent rounds of melee. We can see the survivors routing past the advancing Ogres and Goblins.
The next unit to charge Bucks Dwarven archers was a regiment of Night Goblin Archers. They have already suffered two casualties from bowfire as they have advanced. After each four casualties, a base is removed.
The Dwarven archers managed to move to there right flank to let the more heavily armored Dwarf Free Company advance into melee with the Goblins.
Meanwhile on the Orcs left flank, Greg and Jim have managed to get there Orcs to surge forward to occupy the road, control of which determines the winner of the battle.
Bucks Dwarves stoically fought of the Night Goblin attack, but no sooner had the Goblins routed there place was taken by a unit of huge, lumbering Ogres.
Gregs Orcs fan out in to line occupying a defensive position between the sturdy dry stone walls.
On the Dwarves right flank, Chris's brigade advances cautiously as fast as there short legs allow.
A bizarre sight, Jim’s Ogre regiment charges in a one stand column. It was a gamble, if they had reformed, it would have used half there move so they would not have got into combat, and it certainly kept the pressure up on the Dwarves.
Chris Palmers Dwarves fought well, here we see another unit or Orcs routing towards there own lines.
The Dwarves had enlisted the aid of a mercenary hill giant. He had little problem defending the bridge from the advancing Goblins.
Eventually the Free Company on the Dwarves right flank broke.
At the end of the game, victory was awarded based on the amount of non-routing units occupying the terrain tiles that included the main North - South road. The Orcs had three, the Dwarves had two, so on this occasion it was a minor victory to the green skinned brigade.
We are already planning a return match in four weeks time.
The game mechanics worked very well and I think was enjoyed by all.
The terrain was all built using Sally 4th Terra-Former modular terrain tile kits, which you can find out about here.
Over the last month I have been rebasing all my old Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy Battle miniatures onto 2" square unit bases for playing Wars of Orcs and Dwarves. Click here to take a look at the rebasing article and some of the classic Warhammer miniatures in greater detail.
I've just started a big project to rebase all my Warhammer Fantasy Battle miniatures onto multiple 2" square bases for playing amongst other games 'Wars of Orcs and Dwarves' (WOOD).
I've been playing and collecting Warhammer Fantasy since the first edition was released, and in fact we were playing fantasy battles before that using amended versions of Wargames Research Group 6th Edition Ancients. I was very excited when WFB was launched, rather than house rules and amendments, here was a set of rules purely for playing out Fantasy Battles. I remember the excitement of going to the local games shop in Kingston upon Thames, where I was at college and buying the box set of three A4 booklets. In those days Games Workshop sold and supported all sorts of fantasy and sci-fi games and you could of course use figures from any manufacturer to play Warhammer...boy how things have changed, and not all for the good. I've played all the different editions over the years and collected Dwarves, Empire, Brettonian, High Elf, Wood Elf, Skaven, Lizardmen, Ogre Kingdoms, Tomb Kings and probably some more that I can't even remember.
I was appalled when Games Workshop axed Warhammer. So many people had invested so much time, money and energy and it felt like a pretty cynical move to get people who wanted to continue playing fantasy to go out and buy an 'Age of Sigmar' army and start collecting expensive miniatures from scratch. I was pretty disillusioned and sold most of my Warhammer miniatures on eBay. I think that I'd intended to sell them all but got distracted or bored listing them and some remained, lurking amongst the thousands of historical miniatures in my collection.
Then came, Wars of Ozz, a fantastic mass battle fantasy system set in the worlds described in over 40 'Oz' books by L Frank Baum (and others). Not the Tolkien inspired Warhammer Fantasy by any means, these guys have muskets for a start, but it is a fantasy world with giants, trolls, skeletons, magic and much more, In fact as the 'Wizard of Oz' was first published in 1900 it is quite possible that Tolkien read it and was inspired by it as a child! I've really enjoyed playing Wars of Ozz. The rules are intelligent, streamlined and reach a conclusion in a couple of hours. They are fun to play and do not need the myriad special rules and exceptions that slow so many systems down. I asked the author 'Buck' Surdu, if it would be possible to use the underlying mechanics of Wars of Ozz to write a set of rules for playing games using our old Warhammer Figures and featuring traditional fantasy races like Orcs, Dwarves, Goblins and Elves. Wars of Orcs and Dwarves is the result. It's just in play test at the moment.
This blog is going to be all about the units that I am rebasing, and new units that I put together to supplement them.
These are some of the first plastic miniatures that Games Workshop ever made. You used to get 60 figures for £9.95 (because no one is going to pay £10 for a box of figures!). You got ten each of Dwarves, Goblins, Orcs, Skaven, Wood Elves and Dark Elves. These guys have fought many a campaign. Prior to this Warhammer Regiments box set in plastic, Games Workshop had released 'Drastic Plastic' 54mm figures and a box of plastic skeletons.
This unit is also mainly made up of figures from the Warhammer Regiments plastic box set. Each figure has a seperate head and their was a choice of two to give you some variety.
One of the issues I always found was ranking up miniatures whose arms and weapons often extended beyond their base size. In Warhammer Fantasy Battle, Orcs were mounted on 25mm square bases. In Wars of Ozz and Wars of Orcs and Dwarves, figures are mounted on 2" square bases, and it does not matter how many figures are on the base, the base is an element. I have mounted three Orcs to a base, this allows me to stagger them so that they rank up better and gives a bit more room for scenic modelling on the base.
The command base just has two figures, a Black Orc Boss and a standard bearer. They are both from the early days of Warhammer.
This weekend I have been painting and basing a unit of Wolves for my Orc and Goblin army and a unit of Dwarf Adventuring Companies armed with double handed weapons and crossbows to use in next weekends big Fantasy Battle game.
The Wolves are from Sally 4th Miniatures. I have painted some of these up already as Arctic Wolves and mounted them on single bases for the White Out solo / co-op play games set in the icy wastes. This time I wanted a 6 base unit of twelve wolves. I really like the dynamic poses, especially the leaping and the landing wolves, so I added some logs and rocks for them to jump over.
Here's the complete unit. It was very quick to paint up and was the first test for the spectacular new 'Masterclass: Drybrush set' from Army Painter. When I first looked at these revelotionary new brushes, I thought that no way they could be used on miniatures, as they are huge. However, they are the best dry brushes that I have used ever and the large heads with composite bristles makes short work of picking out detail.
This is the first of two units of 'Adventuring Company' Dwarves. I've called them Adventuring Companies as they are well equiped but with a wide variety of arms and armor. I needed a couple of extra units for my Dwarven army. About 15 years ago some one came into my shop with a bag of poorly painted Dwarves, which were pretty old school even then and asked if I could use them as her son had given up Warhammer. I said thank you very much and they've sat in the bottom of a cardboard box for fifteen years.
I had a look through them and sorted them into figures with a spear or double handed weapon and those with a single handed weapon, stuck them on temporary painting bases and resprayed them over the top of the old paint with Army Painter spray primer. As I had 40 figures to paint over a weekend I needed a quick technique, so I used the Instar Alpha Contrast Paint. This stuff is magic. It's like the GW Contrast paint, but less than half the price. It puts a base coat and low lights on in a single coat (when thinned with Water +) and is very highly pigmented and flows brilliantly.
As the figures are all different, most are Games Workshop but some are pre-slotta base GW, some are TSR D&D Dwarves. I wanted to blend them together as a unit and with the rest of my Dwarf Army so I did some enhancements. The standard bearer is converted from a Spearman using the banner pole and standard from the North Star Oathmark Dwarves. The shields and shield decals are also from North Star Dwarves (apart from a few figures that had shields cast on). Some of the figures had crossbows as part of the castings, but to make it look more like a dual armed unit I added plastic crossbows from my bits box that had been left over from some Perry Miniatures War of the Roses miniatures, (a range that I would reccomend to anyone wanting to collect a Warhammer Empire Army).
Keep checking back... Lots more units to photograph and add.
Over the last few months I have been painting and basing miniatures for Wars of Ozz. Wars of Ozz ia a mass fantasy battle system. Units are typically five stands. With each stand containing four, two or one miniature (depending on the size of the miniature). I've had quiet a few people email me with questions about how I base the miniatures. The important thing to note is that I base my miniatures so that they exactly match the Terra-Former terrain tiles that they are going to be fighting on, so in essence each figure base that I landscape is landscaped in exactly the same way, with the same materials as if it was a terrain module. If you are using different materials for your games table, such as static grass or coloured sawdust flock, you will want to use those materials on your bases, rather than what I am going to show you.
After I varnished the figures with brush on gloss varnish and then sprayed on Matt varnish, I took the figures off the temporary painting bases and glued them onto 2" square MDF bases using Superglue.
I don't like to be able to see the 'plinth' that figures are cast on, so I use ready mix plaster to build up the terrain to hide the bases.
I think this type of plaster could be called 'spackle' in the USA? I use a sculpting tool and an old paint brush to get it between the individual figures bases with out getting any on the actual miniatures.
Using cheap 'craft' paint which I buy in a 2oz bottle the bases are undercoated a dark brown color (Burnt Umber)
The next stage is to glue some interesting scenic pieces to the base. I use twigs and gravel from the garden. I have found that the woody parts of lavender and heather look best as scale logs and brances. I also use a number of tufts from Army Painter and Gamers Grass ranges.
Over the years I have come to the conclusion that nothing looks more like soil, than real soil, so I cover the bases with soil from the garden. The soil I use has been carefully prepared. It has been dried out for several hours in the oven to kill any micro-organisms and get it to a dry powdery consistancy. It has then been sieved a couple of times to remove stones and larger particles. To apply it, I carefully brush pva glue onto the base, taking care to come right up to the sticks, stones and tufts but not to get glue on them. The soil is then sprinkled on and left to dry.
Once the pva glue is dry on the soil, I take the models outside and give them a good sprat with Army Painter 'Anti-Shine' Matt Varnish, which I have always found works very well. As well as varnishing the figures, this helps to fix the soil in position.
When the varnish is dry, I use and old paint brush to cover the bases with PVA glue a second time for gluing the turf down. I water the pva down slightly, and apply liberally as I want it to soak into the foam turf material. I try to leave patches of soil showing to add interest, particularly around the logs, stones and clumps of palnts. The turf material I use is 'Woodland Scenics' fine turf. This is a ground foam products. I've tried lots of products like static grass and powdered sawdust, but this is what I use exclusively now for terrain making and figure basing. I use the 'Green Mix' which I buy in the big shacker bottles.
As soon as I have sprinkled the 'Green Mix' base coat on and tapped it off, I apply some pinches of other colors. I have used red flower mix on all the Ozz bases to represent poppies. I also use a bright green and a dark green, applying pinches to give tonal variety to the grass.
The figures are then taken outside again and the bases are given a good spray of Isopropenyl soloution. This is diluted down to about 40% strength and sprayed through a household cleaning product mister. It acts to break the surface tension on the foam material, saturate it and draw the still wet pva glue up to solidify inside the foam.
... and that's about it. Here's my unit of Winkies deployed on the battlefield and ready for action. I hope that you've found this article useful. I believe that extra time spent on basing is never wasted as it sets off and complements your figure painting and ties your miniatures in with the terrain that you use.
If you would like to find out more about Wars of Ozz, click here to take a look at the pre-order / late pledge site on Gamefound.
Or click here to take a look at the initial products that are in stock and available to ship straight away.
Over the last few months I have been very busy painting miniatures and making terrain for'Wars of Ozz' an new fantasy mass battle game which is curruntly available on Kickstarter.
One of the terrain pieces that I wanted to make was the iconic, round Munchkin houses. After a pretty extensive internet search I concluded that nobody made a kit for these, even as 3D print files. I determined that the best way to approach making these was a combination of 3D printed parts plus traditional model making.
The hardest thing to make was going to be the round tiled roofs, however the beauty of 3D printing is that you can easily scale parts. I found some cylinders of different sizes including a Starbucks coffee cup and a pringles crisp container, measured the diameter and rescaled the 3D print files for the roofs accordingly. I found that I already had two files in my database of building parts that would do the job. The roof with the chimneys and little tower is from Printable Sceneries Wizards Tower model, and the plain roof is from Eslo's castle set.
I printed the roofs at different scales using PLA filament. While they were printing, I got to work on the main part of the houses. I started off making some doors and windows from card and plasti-card which I glued to the Starbucks cups. When dried, I then rolled out a piece of Das modelling clay and wrapped it around the cups, wetting it and pressing into position. I cut out with a sculpting tool around the raised doors and windows and added a few cracks to the walls.
When this had all dried and the roofs had printed, I glued the roofs to the cups and the cups to some Old CDs that I was using as a base using a hot glue gun.
Before adding some plaster and landscape materials to the bases I added some nice picket fence sections which are plastic castings from Renedra.
I spray undercoated the whole models and then painted with acrylic paint, using a selection of bright primary colours as favoured by the Munchkins.
I am very pleased with how these have turned out. I also 3D printed some Mushroom trees, the 3D file for those also came from 'Printable Scenery'
My next project is to make some oriental style 'Winkie' houses using 3D printed roofs and MDF box walls, so hopefully I will be able to share details of those over the next couple of weeks.
If you've not come across it yet and would like more information, Wars of Ozz is a brand new mass fantasy battle game inspired by the world of Oz, first chronicled by L Frank Baum with films by MGM and Disney! There is currently a Kickstarter running click here for details.
I do like to have variety in the miniatures that I use both for Role Playing Games and Tabletop Skirmishes.
I particularly like to be able to set the scene with groups of villagers, who are not heavily armed or in aggresive poses going about their village. This sort of figure is always a bit difficult to track down for historical or mainstream fantasy so doubly so for anthropomorphic villagers. I was very excited when I first heard about the 'Folk Rabble' set that Fireforge Games were planning as it sounded like they would be an ideal base for conversions for both lightly armed militia as well as village folk going about their daily business.
Last weekend, I had a spare half an hour so picked up a box of Folk Rabble and some 'Critter Conversion Kit' heads and tales and started work on building some 'Woodland Villagers'.
The sprue from Fireforge Games has six different bodies, four male and two female together with loads of options including hay forks, bills, scythes, axes, flails, buckets and torches and much more.
It is very easy to but together villager poses as well as militia style poses. Once I had glued the arms to the bodies with plastic glue, it was very easy to glue the metal anthropomorphic heads and tails from the 'Critter Conversion Kits' in place with a drop of superglue.
I'm looking forward to gettting these characterful models painted up and to use them in a game. I'm hoping that I'll get them painted up in the next couple of weeks, so will add some photos when I have.
In case anyone is interested in having ago, I've put together a little Woodland Villagers Conversion that contains a sprue of six models plus six random metal conversions heads and tails.
ACP164:The Albedo Miniatures games is a 28mm hard sci-fi platoon / company level skirmish games in the world of the Albedo Anthropomorphic comics.
To enable players to keep up with miniature gaming during the 2020 global pandemic, we developed a set of solo rules, which are available as a free PDF download. Click here to download them.
Mike Wilson has developed a comprehensive, planet wide campaign game. Players across the world are giving orders to formations and then fighting tabletop battles against a programmed 'intelligent' opponent and then feeding the results back into the overall campaign. Click here to take a look at (or join up to) the Albedo campaign
Last week I played my first solo ACP164 game as part of the campaign. I am playing an Independent Lapine Republic (ILR) Air Mobile Company. At the outset of the Jika campaign they used their Air Mobility to leap forward to land in and around the vitally important mineral mines and then dig in until mechanised forces could reinforce them. While their, to keep the troops frosty the Company Commander ordered some aggresive patrolling to dominate their perimeter.
This action pitted an ILR Platoon against an EDF Armoured Company. The EDF Armoured Company had two Platoons in the line and the third on rotation and each platoon initially had one section standing to at the front and rear of their position, and the third section getting their heads down in their scratchers.
The EDF Company Commander and CSM together with the rest of HQ section were located in a sandbagged position guarding a tunnel entrance to an underground command bunker.
The ILR raiding party rolled to determine their mission, which ended up being to exit off the opposite table edge. As the far side of the table was a command bunker, I decided the mission was to get inside to capture some Intel. The tunnel entrance looked like an easier route of the table than the checkpoint between the cliffs and the building.
The ILR move forward, taking some casualties from flanking fire, but utilising fire and maneuver they give as good as they take and move foward in bounds, sprinting to the next piece of cover before resting to recover.
The EDF realise that the threat is to the rear of their position, thin out the defenders at the front to get them into the firing line.
The ILR move through the wreckage of a shuttle. The last dash to the enemy position is very exposed so they wait until they can bring enough troops up to suppress with fire before the final sprint.
The EDF have a very unlucky day, especially for command casualties. Here a stray round hits their platoion commander straight in the face to incapacitate him with no cover save.
An EDF section from the front of the building redeploys to the roof in anticipation of good arcs of fire.
The EDF's bad luck continues with both the Company Commander and CSM going down from critical shots.
More and more EDF troops are depeployed to the front. Here we see a half section who had started the encounter stood down, moving into position.
The Tunnel entrance has been suppressed and the ILR Air Assault Troopers rush forward to occupy the position. The Air Assault are an elite formation who benefit from elite shooting modifiers plus helmet, torso and abdomen body armour.
The first troops move through the carnage of the defensive position and into the relative safety of the tunnel entrance.
The EDF inflict casualties as the remainder of the Air Assault Platoon cross open ground to the bunker, but eventually the bulk of the platoon are on the objective.
The EDF continue to engage the enemy in a long range firefight. The half section that redeployed onto the roof have good arcs across the battlefield.
The ILR move through the bunker complex. The EDF mount a counterattack through the main bunker entrance, but it is to little, to late.
The final results of the game were fed into the overall campaign.
Last weekend I started a first playtest game to try out the solo mechanisms built into Wars of Ozz. I've been painting up miniatures for Wars of Ozz for several weeks now so have enough painted to field a 25 point Brigade of Quadlings and Gilikins. 25 points is the standard size size for a player to command.
One of the things I really like about Wars of Ozz is the Regimental personalisation. At the start of the game you roll a D20 for each unit to determine it's personalisation, so you could have a number of units of basically the same troop type that behave slightly differently due to the character of their leader.
The Quadling Army was made up of:
Southern Infantry - 5 pts - Swift +2" to movement
Northern Infantry - 6pts - Indecisive -1" to even move rolls / +1" to odd move rolls
Tinmen - 6pts - Zealous - When fired upon will respond by charging enemy if within 10"
Medium Artillery Battery - 5pts - Impatient - Attacks 1st in melee
Lesser Pumpkin Heads - 3 pts - Lucky - reroll one combat dice
Led by the Red Witch who rolled up the Duelist skill.
The Gilikins fielded the following:
Gilikin Infantry - 5pts - Steadfast +1 to units resolve
Gilikin Cavalry on Giant Goats - 6pts - Beserkers + 1 to units melee ability
Giant Flying Apes - 8ppts - Hesitant -1 to units Elan
Light Artillery - 4pts- Beserkers + 1 to units melee ability
Talisman (magic item) - 2pts - +1 To marksmanship of Infantry
Led by Green Witch and her superior staff which extended her command radius to 18" rather than normal 12"
In this solo game, I played the Quadlings against system run Gilikins. I deployed the Quadlings on to the table and then rolled a D6 for start position of each Gilikin unit.
Unit activation uses the Double random allocation method. At the start of the game each brigade commander determines their dice pool. One dice for themselves, plus one dice for each unit within their command radius (which is normally 12"). Any unit outside their command radius has a D6 rolled for their activation number and placed by the unit, as they are to far away to be influenced by the brigade commander. The activation deck contains black 1-6 cards and red 1-6 cards plus two jokers. One side is red the other is black. In this game I decided Quadlings would be red as they carry red flags. A card is turned from activation deck, if the number corresponds to a dice in the brigade commanders dice tool, they can allocate it to a unit and that unit can then activate (move, fire or melee). If the dice has already been allocated to a unit, that unit activates at that point. Both sides potentially activate on the card, so units often activate twice in a turn. The color of the card determines who acts first (if important), so if it is a Red Four, the Quadlings would act first on it. Once both Jokers have been drawn the turn ends and the cards are reshuffled.
Turn one was all about manouvere and deployment. By the end of the turns the Quadlings had formed a credible battle line.
However their flanks are far from secure. The Gilikins Giant Flying Apes threaten their right flank and the Gilikin Cavalry their left flank. Although the cavalry are slowed by moving over rough grouns and having to cross a linear obstacle to move through the corn fields. The order of activation is going to be very important at the start of turn two to see if the Tinmen and Lesser Pumpkin Heads can get into a position to protect the Quadlings left flank.
To be continued...
The Quadlings manage to move their infantry and artillery into position to form a good defensive line.
However, it looks like the Green Witch has a pretty effective secret weapon that she is about to unleash on the Quadlings lines. She focuses her energy on getting this flying unit as far forward as she can, on her left flank to attempt a flanking attack.
The Great Flying Apes charge! Looks like it is going to be a very one sided affair.
However, 'Wars of Ozz' has some very good rules around morale and reactions. The Quadling gunners test against their 'Elan' for being charged, and roll a '1', which is as good a reaction as is possible. They manage to turn to face, shoot and will fight in the upcoming melee at 'up 1' (presumably to represent the effect of that final shot of close range grape-shot. The white dice represent the casualties inflicted. So the Apes took 6 from shooting and melee, meaning they lose a stand with 2 hits carried as stands are normally 4 hits strong. The Quadling took 2 hits, but as each stand is only 1 hit strong they lose 2 stands.
The final result of the melee is that the Quadling gunners have routed away from their gun, and the flying apes are pushed back, disordered.
Meanwhile on the Gilikins right flank, their cavalry are taking longer than they planned to cross the fields of crops (rough going) to attack the Quadlings in the flank. In fact, it looks like the advantage is being turned, as the Quadling infantry are begining to wheel into a frontal position and the Tinmen are moving up to threaten the Gilikins flank.
As this was a solo game, I recorded the 'posture' of the Gilikins each turn to see how they would react. This is the posture tracking table at the end of turn 2. The posture of the system controlled force is dependent on the balance of successes, morale and loses. At the moment their forces posture is 'normal'. For each posture state there is a table to roll on to determine how a particular unit behaves at the point it is activated.
The Quadlings manage to improve there position by moving a unit of Lesser Pumpking Heads up to reinforce the right of there line.
The Tinmen continue to move forward to threaten the right flank of the Gilikin cavalry.
The Tinmen charge home and after a couple of rounds of continuing melee the Gilikins have lost two bases, the tinmen one and both are carrying three hits over.
Eventually the Gilikin Cavalry break and fall back disordered.
The Lesser Pumpking Heads charge the Great Flying Apes. Bases in contact and bases touching bases in contact get to fight. So the Pumking heads have four bases fighting two, and eventually destroy the apes.
This is the position at the end of turn three. The Gilikin infantry have moved forward and deployed into line.
During turn four the Tinmen managed to charge the disordered Gilikin cavalry again which resulted in the survivors retreating in a rout.
The Quadling line was now perfectly deployed and in a strong position, so at this point I called it as a Quadling victory.
The game was very entertaining, the mechanisms were easy to use and delivered a decisive result and even better, in these strange times, the rules have solo, programmed opponent features designed into the core rules.
Wars of Ozz is a fantasy mass battle table top game inspired by the world imagined and chronicled by Baum in the Oz books but further developed by Russ Dunway as a brand new and unique gaming world. Further details @ www.warsofozz.com